View Full Version : Wood Deck Care and Maintenance
15th April 2007, 02:47 AM
Aloha *b team,
I recently came into possession of a "lightly used" 2005 Evo 70 wood. From my very first time on the board, I found it everything it is advertised to be, in terms of performance. Great speed through bottom turns (or any turn). Great control and responsiveness. Amazing aerials off tiny (waist-high to chest-high) waves. Insane gliding through holes and lulls. Wow. Congratulations to the design team. If there is one thing I would fault, it is that the board seems a little slow to accelerate from a slow or standing start - it seems to want to take its time to pop onto a plane - this is particularly crucial when trying to catch a gust going out through the zone, or trying to accelerate to drop in, in light winds. I don't think it is because the board is too small for me - I am a relative lightweight at 66 kgs. Maybe there is a trick to getting the acceleration? Aside from "bear off, keep the board flat, distribute your weight evenly, pump harder?"
In any case, my real questions have to do with the wood veneer, and its care and maintenance. It looks like the clear coat/non-skid has worn off from a few (three or four) spots on the top deck, all located between the front and rear footstraps (amazing how this can happen with a board that's been used "only a few times") . The worn spots are approximately circular/oval, maybe five or seven centimeters in diameter. Not only that, but it also looks like the exposed wood has been attacked by mold/rot or even possibly termites. This does happen to anything made of untreated wood left exposed to the tropical jungle, here on the North Shore of Maui. The worn spots have NOT been eaten through entirely, however they do show some moderate tell-tale signs of infestation. They do NOT feel soft to the touch, and they do sound nice and hollow when I knock on them with my knuckles. Aside from these few spots, the rest of the deck looks perfectly fine.
The basic question is, what kind of repair (if any) should I perform to ensure the structural integrity and durability of the board?
In more detail, has anyone else in tropical locations reported this kind of condition? Is the board at risk of taking on water through tiny cracks or pinholes in the worn/infested spots, or do the underlying synthetic materials ensure an impermeable seal? If there is the possibility that water has already seeped in, would it be advisable to cut out the worn spots and then core out and replace any weakened foam? Or would it be sufficient to just sand thoroughly, re-coat/re-varnish and call it good? Is there any specific course recommended to prevent the spread/recurrence of this kind of infestation?
Thanks for your reply, I hope I won't need to take the board to the exterminator's/pest control unit for treatment.
15th April 2007, 04:18 AM
I checked "The Board Lady" repair website, and Eva suggests using
Smith and Co. Penetrating Epoxy for the worn spots on your deck.
Here's a link to the Smith and Co. website:
Sounds like the Clear Penetrating Epoxy is the right product, for several reasons.
Be sure to dry your deck out and leave it out in the sun for a while to, as Eve puts it, "Bleach the wood back to it's original golden patina".
Hope this helps,
15th April 2007, 04:49 AM
I'm not from the Starboard team, but I find your affected wood deck quite curious. When Starboard's wood decks are finished, it's my understanding that the wood is effectively saturated and permeated by epoxy to yield a robust matrix similar to epoxy saturated fiberglass or carbon cloth. Apparently the Australian pine used in manufacture allows a proper degree of even saturation, without excessive retention of epoxy that would unnecessarily increase weight, or a form of varying resistance that would block absorption. Unless the integrity of the wood was compromised in some way, or lacked the proper processing during manufacture, I would think that the finished surface would be impervious to water, mold, or insects.
In any case, I'm sure that the folks at Starboard might be able to offer the best kind of advice if you included a closeup digital photo of the condition.
If you want to investigate appropriate repair strategies, I would recommend checking out the Board Lady's website. She is arguably one of the best sources for information on a multitude of different repair instructions and processes.
Looks like Roger responded after I started my response above. Still, you might want to share a bit with the photo thing I suggested. Regardless, the Board Lady's website is definitely worth some exploration.
16th April 2007, 05:03 AM
Thank you to Roger and to SteveC for the quick replies, and for the advice.
I will check out the "Board Lady" website and try to get a hold of some of the epoxy repair material - I hope it is something I can find at the local Home Depot or Lowes, otherwise it will be mail order.
I am also posting photos of the affected areas. Very interested in opinions on what this looks like and what may have caused it.
A hui hou,
Later update: I tried posting the jpeg images of the deck, however they were not accepted here as attachments, even though they were less than 1MB in size, as specified. The error message was "Attachment file type not allowed." If anyone is interested, I can send them by email.
16th April 2007, 06:16 AM
By the way, here are some instructions that I found here on this website:
"In wood boards, if the wood has been exposed to water or starts cracking, you can sand away the epoxy layer that seals the wood in that area, until you reach the wood layer itself. Sand lightly on this until the wood cracks are smooth again, and let dry.
Apply some epoxy resin and place a layer of good quality nylon cloth over the entire area + at least 3cm, and wet this out with resin too. Make sure you do not wet the entire nylon, but leave a dry 'frame' around the repaired area. This area is to allow you to peel off the nylon once the resin has cured.
You will now have a solid layer of epoxy resin sealing the wood, with a texture due to the nylon. Sand this texture away and blend the new layer of epoxy with the rest of the board by sanding. As for all repairs, start with 100 grit paper going finer up to 600 and 1000 with water."
16th April 2007, 09:41 PM
I'm not so sure about the "good grade of nylon cloth trick" but I intend to try it on a scrap piece of wood to see if it works.
I think it would depend a great deal on "when you pull the cloth off" because if you don't "pull it" before the epoxy has fully cured, I think the nylon cloth will become part of the repair and you'll end up sanding it off just as you would with regular fiberglass cloth.
If you found some teflon coated nylon, maybe it would pull off OK, but otherwise I would "pull it" as soon as the epoxy take a slight "set"
in the curing cycle.
Other products (besides Smith and Co. Penetrating Epoxy) that you could use (and that may be more easily obtained) would be a good grade of polyurethane floor varnish. (2 part if you can find it).
If you can send me some photos, that would be great.
Send them to firstname.lastname@example.org.
Also, there are some really great board repair shops on Maui.
Why not just take your board to one of them and let a professional board repair guy take care of your issues. They are more likely to have the epoxy resins and thinners that will seal your board, as well as foam dust to restore the non-skid.
Hope this helps,
17th April 2007, 12:52 AM
If you elect to do the repair yourself, I would contact Fiberglass Hawaii on Maui to get all the supplies you'll need. Don't waste your time with the big box stores, because they will not have quality materials that you'll need. Fiberglass Hawaii supplies the surfing, windsurfing and boating industries with a complete range of quality products at competitive prices.
246 Papa Place, Kahului - Ph: (808) 871 7955
3rd July 2007, 09:48 AM
The Nylon material that is mentioned is called Peel ply fabric. It is a nylon that epoxy does not stick to but will allow excess epoxy to blead thru if you use a vacuum bag or if you squeegie the repair you can draw out the excess epoxy with paper towel or the cotton obsorbant blanket that is use in vacuum bagging. The peel ply is left on until the epoxy is cured then it peels off when your done. Just leave it oversized so you can grab a dry end to pull it off. It will leave the tecture of the fabric on the epoxy, the other thing it will do is pull any alimine blush with the fabric. ( alimine Blush is a waxy film left behind the by the cured epoxy) Check out West Systems epoxy they have a great composite DIY book. Good luck Mike T
6th July 2007, 11:35 PM
Probably not the best solution, but it seems to work.
On my old F175 and F147, (now a F160), the deck / wood showed signs of very slight water penetration (a few centimeters of discoloring by small cracks).
I just dabbed small amounts of polyurethane on the spots, which resealed the cracks and stopped the spread of the water / discoloration. The color of the polyurethane didn't match the wood, so it wasn't a perfect solution, but it only took a few minutes to do the job.
25th February 2008, 10:07 PM
This is my repair on 04 Acid Wood
31st December 2008, 04:27 PM
Hi some one advice to me.
My Futura 111(2008 model) had small black spots on the Wood deck. Black spot coming is 1mm or so ,and Black spots area whitens. This area is Top of board ,
Front of back strap and mast area. I think this black spots is Mold ?
Sharpened it, and watched the surface of the wood ; after all seem to be mold.
Anyway Do I have to remove black spot ? then fillers?
I red this:
1st January 2009, 12:58 AM
Mold should not penetrate the wood. It needs air and moisture to grow and stay alive. If it is dead, it can be brushed off.
You probably have slight moisture penetration through small cracks in the wood which darkens the wood. Read the previous comments regarding what this means and what to do.
1st January 2009, 06:03 PM
Thanks for your advice and I got it.
Probably the nose did a snap then crack I understand it .
(A snap and a crack then exfoliate).
but Back strap area did not get snap. This area crack is by foot step?.
There seems to be the place that Non-slip paint exfoliates from wood. then such area whitened.
I thinks it seems to have painted a directly non-slip in Wood?=>Make Light weight.
Non-slip paint + wood not so good combination? or Wood is too soft.
Anyway I will remove Non-slip paint from wood area. then remove back spots.
Finally, as for what I understood, the Wood version is beautiful and Light weight.
But After sailing, the maintenance is important. It is same as Seahorse Class Sailing-Dinghy. Technora is better for week end sailer(me).
vBulletin® v3.8.6, Copyright ©2000-2015, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.