View Full Version : iSonic Questions
7th September 2006, 10:49 PM
Hey there Roger:
Some questions for you on the iSonic.
I have the F-Type 148, got rid of a GO 139 and am getting rid of a Carve 121, got an iSonic 125 and plan to get a iSonic 105. I am really digging my iSonic 125 so far. Lots more fun than the GO, although of course much trickier to trim and to schlog. I love that it goes upwind very well (especially relative to the Carve), allows for mixing it up between upwind, beam reaches and downwind runs.
1) What kind of sails do you recommend with the iSonic? I don't race at all, just blast around and love to beat guys in drag races at the local spot. I have an 8.5 Retro that I have been using, which I love. I have a 7.3 North Crossride, which is more of a SuperX sail, which I don't think matches up as well, looking to replace with maybe a 7.5 Retro. I don't really want to mess with cams. I know I will lose some top end speed by going with a FreeRace sail like a Retro versus a cammed sail, but that is okay by me. Which sail(s) did you use with your iSonic 115 most often this year?
2) Any tips for (i) early planing technique and (ii) trimming at speed for the iSonic? Your coaching on the F-Types has been great, would love to hear your thoughts on the iSonic as well.
7th September 2006, 11:07 PM
My small board is a old long narrow slalom board (120 ltrs).
I can tack on it regular when i have no speed to gybe.
My questions are:
Can i tack on ISonic 122ltrs?
2007 ISonic 122ltrs only in wood?
9th September 2006, 08:21 AM
Most used sails were 6.5 and 5.5 Retro's and then I got the 5.6 and 6.6 Huckers and I've been using them almost exclusively since the beginning of the summer.
I have a 6.6 NX-4 that I've used but I find the smaller Retros and Huckers are very nearly as fast.
So, Free race or race sails (unless you can get hold of a couple of Huckers).
Retros are very good here as always.
As far as tuning the Isonics, I found the Is 115 very easy to sail.
Faster is with the mast foot as far back as you can handle.
Fin selection is very critical. Smaller fins than you think really help the top speed and make the Isonics easier to handle in the chop.
Ian Fox told me a little trip that I've used fairly extensively. It's scary, but if you think you're at about top speed and wish to see what "scary fast, warp speed, in afterburner" is about, just bring your body slightly forward, put a tiny bit of pressure on the front footstrap, and "send it" a little deeper off the wind.
At first it was really scary, but soon I found that the Isonic remained well mannered anc controlable, and just went faster.
Hope this helps,
9th September 2006, 08:31 AM
You didn't say what you weigh, but if you can tack you long narrow 120 liter board, the Isonic should be pretty easy.
Just don't step in front of the mast foot like you do on your 120 liter slalom.
Step OVER the lower part of the mast so you never get your weight forward of the mast foot.
There's not too much float in the front of the Isonics, but my guess is that you will find it much easier to stay on top of the Isonic 122 than your long skinny 120 liter board. It's wider and the volume is back where you need it so you get earlier planing, better top speed, and you may find it even handles the chop better.
Only thing you need to be aware of is that you'll need to move back on the board further to get the Isonic 122 to plane. It does not have the longer planing flat that your 120 liter board has. So, you will not be able to get the Isonic to plane in quite the same way you are accustomed too.
I think the Isonic is such a "high end" board, that Starboard simply decided to only make them in WOOD construction.
Nothing wrong with wood. My Isonic 115 (delivered a year ago in September, looked almost like new when I left it off to be sold with the rest of the demo fleet last weekend.
Hope this helps,
9th September 2006, 08:45 AM
Thanks. A couple more questions:
1) From the sounds of the above, you seemed to like the Huckers better than the Retros for the iSonic. What did you like better about them?
2) For quickest planing on the iSonic what do you do? Head downwind and pump? Do you start with the front foot in the strap like on the F-Type, or is the technique different?
9th September 2006, 06:21 PM
Thanks too much for your answer.
Im 80kg sailor. I forgot this data.
In my actual board, tack is possible but hard for its 57cm width, and yes, i put one foot just in front (very close) to tack. In this board i need to step over a centerline allways.
In the 120 ISonic tack would be like in a Shorter FW board? Jumping tack to tack, isnt it? but more close to centerline.
But if wind went down, how to uphaul if i cant step forward the mast?
What is the ideal sail size for 80kg/IS120?
I know my questions sounds atipic, but i need to know if i can survive and return if the wind fails when im more than one mile off shore ;-)
Another option is to take a 122 Carve, but maybe i will need to much consistent wind and loss planning in hulls.
9th September 2006, 09:33 PM
I will answer this as I have both an iSonic 125 and a Carve 122.
I am a little lighter at 72 kg, but tacking is no problem on the iSonic 125. I was worried about it at first with the short nose, but was suprised it was fine. It does require good technique, but I found that sailing the iSonic a few times my technique adapted just fine. You can step in front of the mast, the key is to do it quickly with light feet...
I have sailed it with 6.6, 7.3, 8.5, all three of those were good. I taking .5-1.0 m2 off each end of the Starboard recommended range gives a good sweet spot.
The Carve 122 needs *a lot* more wind. I find board width to be a more accurate way to measure a board, versus volume. The Carve 122 is 68.5 cm wide, more comparable to an iSonic 115/111, the iSonic 125 is 75 cm wide. I also find uphauling much easier on the iSonic 125, despite the similar volume. The Carve 122 sweet spot is more 5.5-7.0.
If you are worried about getting back when the wind dies, the iSonic schlogs better, and goes upwind better while schlogging, probably due to greater width and boxier rails.
(Roger: Please see my additional questions above.)
9th September 2006, 09:45 PM
Thanks too much Pete!
....And what about this year with real volumes?
I hear last year real liters was diferent that related ones.
Your IS125 has real 115 liters, isnt it? and this year?
11th September 2006, 03:28 AM
I recently got an 05 F-Type 148 and have some questions. I'm trying to post a new thread, but haven't been able to. This is a test to see if I can reply to a posting.
Has anyone else had this problem? Does anyone else have the text "You are not authorized to view this Forum" on the reply mask?
11th September 2006, 03:41 AM
I just tried again to start a new thread with poor results. I don't know where they are going???
Anyway, I just got an 05 F-Type 148 and was sailing it in 10-15mph with some chop (<1') with a 9.4 V8 and the stock (56cm) fin. I weigh 185lbs.
I was having trouble moving up through the gears and moving back on the board. I would generally head up or even spin out. The only way I could stay on a plane was to head way off the wind and stay there.
Do you suspect this is pilot error? Any suggestions? Is it possible that the stock fin isn't big enough for the sail?
11th September 2006, 05:54 PM
If you can get on a plane then you should be able to go at least a bit upwind. On my FT138 54/9.5 but only 80Kg I'm already flying in 10-15 kts, don't even have to bother with pumping.
- are you only rying to point upwind after being well established on a plane?
- when trying to point are you just pressing down the windward rail (this you should NOT do instead, pull fornt foot towards you and tilt board a bit leeward and lear toward to front of the board (in your harness) and weigh those lines!)
- I think you might be sheeting in too early and too hard killing all power (and spinnig out/dropping off a plane)
- you might consider placing you MF further forward to conteract turing upwind (speed setup comes after control)
11th September 2006, 09:26 PM
Glad to hear you got the F-Type. The guys at Island Sports said they had sold it, I asked if it was to you.
Try starting with the front foot in the strap and the rear foot just in front of the rear straps on the centerline. You can start in the harness or out, I start in the harness, but if so you risk a catapult if things don't go as planned, so maybe better for you to start out of the harness till you get the hang of it. When you have the wind and want to get planing, be on a beam reach or below, and give it a couple of pumps, both the sail, and the rear foot on the board to pump the fin. It should "pop" onto the plane pretty quickly (keep pumping until it does). Once on a plane you can rotate your body out and get in the rear strap, and begin to rake the sail back as you pressure the rear foot against the fin, you can head upwind pretty quickly.
If you still are having troubles, do a session or two with the straps in the middle or inner positions, that's what I had to do to get used to it, but then go to the outer straps for max leverage against the fin as soon as you are comfortable.
It is a little different technique than the narrower boards, but once you get used to it, you'll love it. I ride the F-Type so much, I have trouble remembering what to do on a smaller freeride board! ;) I use this board for 9.5/8.5/7.3 winds and love it, as long as the water is pretty flat. If the chop is there, it gets pretty rough, time to go back to the smaller boards.
Good luck, see you soon if you go to Fogland.
P.S. For shallow water (like Fogland), I use the True Ames Shallow Water Weed fins, 51 cm for the 9.5 and 44 cm for 8.5/7.3, per Roger's input. Plenty of lift for planing, great pointing, rarely spins out (sometimes the 44 does with 8.5 overpowered).
13th September 2006, 07:08 AM
Thanks for the advice...
I have to try, but I may have had my back foot too far back. (This worked on my old FF.)
Where do you guys typically put your mastfoot?
13th September 2006, 09:20 AM
Per Roger's advice, mast track further back than center. Roger coaches to go almost all the way back, and if it tailwalks, keep moving it forward until it just stabilizes. That way you are riding off the fin the maximum possible. In my case I am just covering the larger entry rectangle with a Chinook single bolt base. I leave it in the same spot for 9.5 and 8.5 (mostly out of laziness, once I found a good spot, I stopped playing with it...).
Per your other question, above, you may eventually want to get a bigger fin (62-64 cm) for the 9.8 V8, but I doubt that is the reason you are having trouble getting planing consistently.
13th September 2006, 11:36 PM
As MA_Pete described, that's how I find the proper mast position. As for the 9.8... on a F-Type 148, I have found that a 70cm fin works great when you are trying to get planing in super light conditions. I have a 66cm fin for when things fill in more. And I really want to get a 62-64cm fin for when the sail is really powered up. My next fin down is a 58cm -- it doesn't seem to match up well with my 9.8. Actually, I don't like it with my 7.7 either. Maybe I should ebay it. ;-)
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