View Full Version : iSonic 87 gybes

25th September 2007, 05:39 PM
First off I never have been the best at turning corners at speed but I can usually get around on the plane. I can even gybe my Missile XS with some difficulty. I previously had a Sonic W55 and could scream that thing around the corners.

I cannot however gybe the iSonic 87. Every time, even on flat water, I find the board stalling, like a rail digging in but not quite a rail trip.

Has anyone else experienced this problem moving from something like the W55 to one of these short designs and does anyone have any tips to overcome the problem?

It's very frustrating as I know these boards are meant to be easier to turn???

25th September 2007, 06:29 PM
I don't know since I haven' use the other boards you mention and only have the iS76. But I know the 76 turns in an amazing way and the more you commit to the turn (going in with speed, widening your grip on the boom, leaning in a and forwards in the turn) the better it goes. I often even do carving 360:s on it just because its so fun carving it at speed.

But I remember that when I first got my S101, also was a bit hesitant with turning it. But also on that board the answer is commitment and getting a bit forwards, I think (now I can pull very nice jibes also on the 101 and the odd 360 when I'm in the mood). So, interpolating from this, I think you should try to enter your turns with a bit more forward pressure. Start by settling the board by adding some mast foot pressure and then commit to the turn. Widening the grip on the boom is a trick to do this. When you stand up, sheets out a bit and then widen the grip you will (usually) automatically get more forwards. Then think like you will use power downwards though the boom to help put the board in its rail.

You will then use the curve under the board to turn and not have to fight the kind of big and flat tail.

22nd October 2007, 05:51 PM
Hi Martwald. I have the IS 87 and I find it to be one of the sweetest gybing boards I have ridden. I agree with Ola that getting weight forward is very important.The most common problem I see in gybing is standing on the back foot, leaning back and lifting up on the boom, thus digging in the tail and stalling the board. The great thing about the modern slalom shapes that have the wide points well back towards the centre is that it is very hard to bury the forward rail to the point where they trip up, even in chop and waves. This allows the rider to use a lot of mast foot pressure (pull down on the boom) and roll their weight forward by bending the knees to engage the rail and keep the board flat and driving on the rail. Moving the hands apart down the boom and sheeting in on the 'tip in' helps that a lot. Putting the back foot further forward can help too. I often put my back foot almost against the front foot strap. It is best to have plenty of speed on the entry and avoid railing the board too much if you don't have as much speed on entry.
Another common fault is to hold the over-sheeted boom in for too long. By the time the board is downwind the boom should already be pushed out and forward and the board should be starting to roll out of the turn slightly to keep momentum.
My best Alpha 500 run was done on the IS87 with standard fin in small chop, 18-22 knots of wind and 5.8m KA Koncept sail with an average speed of just under 26 knots and a minimum speed in the gybe of 19.4 knots. See: http://www.intellimass.com/TrackData/GPS%20Alpha%20Racing%20Top%2010.htm
I am pretty happy with that but look forward to this summer as I am sure this sweet little board will do even better.

Hope this helps, Andrew

28th October 2007, 05:46 PM
With modern boards having more of their volumes further back it may be more important than before to have pressure on the rear foot to really engage the rail of the board. I have tried placing my rear foot both nearer the front strap and nearer the rear strap during the gybe. From my experience, having my rear foot as close to the rear strap as possible has worked best. It also gives you a wider stance which improves balance. When I tried with my rear foot further forward I sometimes would spin out during the gybe, a sign that I wasn't engaging the fin/rear rail enough in the turn due to insufficient foot pressure in that area. Consider skateboarding down a hill. To make a turn you don't really lean forward. You lean sideways in the direction you want to turn while bending your knees at the same time. You are leaning, but not really in the direction of the nose of the skateboard, but in the direction of the turn. To turn a sailboard would you want to lean forward in the direction of the nose of the board, or sideways in the direction of the turn? There is a 90 degree difference between these. I think when you are at the stage of your gybe when you have taken your rear foot out of the strap and your body is roughly perpendicular to the deck of the board (with knees bent) and you begin to lean over to initiate the gybe, your body's angle to the board (either front/rear-wise or left/right-wise) does not change even as you lean over some more, since your increased body lean is offset by an increase in lean of the board into the turn. So in the end your actual stance does not change too much during the gybe from when you took your rear foot out of the strap and just before you started to lean sideways. I think there is an illusion that you are leaning foward, and with respect to your body angle to the surface of the water you are but relative to your board you are not, because your board is leaning too. When you are leaning sideways but moving foward you might feel you are leaning forward. Pictures that I see in magazines of a laydown gybe where the sailor's front leg is a lot more bent than the rear leg to me would be very hard to do especially in rough water because with an almost straight rear leg you wouldn't be able to generate enough rear foot pressure on the fin/final third of the rail. This gybe might work in flat water. I have found I gybe best when I concentrate on back foot pressure generated through bent knees. Both knees are bent equally but with the priority being pressure through the back foot. Consciously lifting up on the front foot which is still in the strap can also help to engage the rail. I found that if I keep my front hand well infront and push down on the boom with my front hand using an overhand grip helps to keep the nose of the board down and the board flat during the turn, even while I am concentrating on back foot pressure. Another thing that improved my gybe overnight for the better was from a gem of a tip in a Peter Hart gybe video; upon taking your front foot out of the strap, bring it directly over to the opposite rail and place it infront of your back foot. THis will ensure you continue to keep pressure on the inside rail throughout your gybe. If feels awkard at first because your feet and knees will be pointing in opposite directions but you get used to it and this position is only for a short time anyway. I try to do these things no matter what kind of board or conditions I am sailing in, only adjusting the degree to which I do them depending on the board or conditions I am sailing in. In stronger winds I would bend my knees more and really press down with my rear leg. You don't have to lean backwards onto the tail of the board to generate pressure with the back foot, as long as your knees are sufficiently bent. The less drama in the gybe the better. These are the things I have found that have worked well for me, which may work for you too.