View Full Version : Broken-Screw Extractors
17th January 2008, 09:38 AM
Hi! I found another source for some screw extractors ( might come in handy for broken foot strap screws as previously posted on the forum) they seem to have a good selection of sizes here is the Contact info and web address. T&L Tools Gales Ferry, Ct 06335
Ph 860-464-9709 www.tltools.com/tlt/ Take care and fair winds! Mike T
18th January 2008, 08:07 AM
The Un-screwums look like a great tool to use to get broken off footstrap screws out
of the insert.
I'll have to give one a try.
The 1/4" Un-Screwum looks like it would be the best size to use on the 6 mm PT screws we use for footstraps.
Great info, Thanks
24th January 2008, 05:10 AM
Interesting comment on how long "Unscrewums" last.
"from less than one removal to 44 "
I`d get the set that lasts less than 1 !!! I`d then revert to careful grinding and good old mole grips.
24th January 2008, 09:31 PM
I see what you are talking about, but I'm not sure how applicable it is here.
If we were pulling broken screws from hardwood, steel, fiberglass, etc. then you
are correct, but for extracing footstrap screws that have broken off, we are only dealing with soft stainless steel screws and an engineering plastic (the FS insert) so I would
expect the Un-Screwum's to last quite well.
The main reason footstrap screws break off is that they are over torqued on installation, or they are not lubricated when originally installed (I use a bar of bath soap for this).
Rubbing the screw on a bar of soap before you install it does several things.
1/ Makes the screw tighten up with less overall torque and more clamping force.
2/ Makes the screw much easier to remove so you don't break the heads off.
3/ Makes the screw easier to extract in the almost never event that you should break off the head.
Soft, austenitic, non-magnetic, stainless steel will allow the Un-Screwum's to get a nice bite and hold it, making extracting the screw much easier.
Hope this helps,
25th January 2008, 02:42 AM
Only time I could envisage using one is if screw has broken and head/shank not protruding. Their advice is to remove head to use tool; which seems wrong.If head is protruding I would always file screw square and use mole grips.If screw then broke (I`ve never had that happen) I think I would just use another hole.
Most common problem I`ve had is rounding slots in screw. If you remove pressure from screw (cut and remove plastic spacer/washer under screw) it will invariably come out.(If squared off and using mole grips)
I`ve tried to use "easy outs" ( left handed tapered taps) to remove studs from engine blocks I normally find if these "gimmicks" work I would have removed stud anyway.
Agree with comments about initial instalation.
Other "secret" is to use correct screwdriver from start.
25th January 2008, 10:07 AM
Right on, my man!
Using a screwdriver (the Starboard footstrap screws are all a #3 Phillips or #3 Posi-Drive) that's the correct size and configuration (look for a good one with a hardened and
slightly serrated/toothed and sandblasted tip) and a little soap as a lubricant and my footstrap screws all seem to last as long as I the boards.
Most of the screws I've had to dig out were on other peoples boards.
That's what I get for being sort of a "rep".
I get to:
1/ Fit fins into fin boxes.
2/ Fix/Repair broken FS screws and vent plugs
3/ Rebuild/repair sail battens
4/ Separate stuck masts.
All the fun stuff......
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