29th January 2008, 05:24 AM
On this thread you advise that the Boardlady recommends the Smith Product, I really looked hard at her site and DID NOT see it anywhere.
I'm ready to apply this and have just a little doubt that it is ok on the wood veneer regards the penetrating aspect to the carbon and divinycell products below ,
Any help would be appreciated .......
29th January 2008, 09:25 AM
The Smith and Co. penetrating epoxy will do just what you want it to.
It will slightly penetrate any "dry" areas of the wood layer on your board and seal them up so that they are adequately saturated to prevent them soaking up any water.
It will not cause any problems with the layers under the wood layer as the
penetrating epoxy will only "soak" into the dry areas that will accept it.
It won't "penetrate" through fully laminated fiberglass or carbon fiber, and it
won't hurt divinycell as it's an epoxy based resin, and divinycell works best
with epoxy resins. All of the resins used in the manufacture of your board (and all
Starboards) are epoxy based.
I talk with Eva (The Boardlady) from time to time and when I get a situation like yours,
I email her with the specifics of the problem and wait for her recommendation.
She uses various different resins for different reasons, and sometimes switches to different resin manufacturers when she finds a good new product, or can't get the specific product she wants.
Your board (and all its sandwich "layers" will be fine if you use the Smith & Co. penetrating epoxy.
Hope this helps,
29th January 2008, 09:42 AM
Ok, Thank You, its going on tomorrow.
25th February 2008, 09:03 PM
I finished this board ,a 04 Acid wood deck, thought I would update my task. The Clear Penetrating Epoxy Sealer was applied over the Austrailian Pine which is .6 mm thick according to Starboard, I removed the Tiki sticker and stripped the wood down by sanding. I applied a oil based stain "Natural Oak" to offset some differences in color, worked somewhat. This CPES cost $38.00 for 2 pints which gets mixed 50/50, recommended are vinyl gloves, a respirator, the company that makes this is in California & they have great customer service,Smith and Co, recommend a painters suit, wet the floor, hang a plastic ceiling, have doors and windows closed, all this to prevent dust. Use a disposable natural bristle brush, I found the cheapest ones lost too many bristles, so went for a $4.00 one for the last of the 3 coats. The CPES is easy to spread, it is like water, but starts to dry pretty quick, it does lump up, so the final coat from the previous 2 was still a little uneven, not concerned since the final layer is Re-Dek. The area on the Acid between the footstrap is wood and was discolored a lot, I painted it in the colors of the board in a loose pattern, similar to the Acids , sort of zebra stripe, this turned out quite well. I'm fairly convinced that this is the BEST product for this, but it is extensive to go this far, particularly on a older board, it was a lot more involved that I thought, but then aren't all projects. The area where the nose Tiki sticker WAS, had shaded the wood, so now without a sticker at all it has a negative Tiki. My Dad was a painter and furniture refinisher, so as his helper I have a background in this stuff, so its concept not new, still involved. What Iam really pleased especially after the time/work and money spent that it looks super, and I think will fix the problem on the pine laminate. So yes overall worth it. :)
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