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sabydent
14th April 2008, 10:20 PM
I just got my new Futura 155. I was installing the footstrap in the middle back position on the left side. The screw would not engage fully, as I tried to push down and get the screw to bite, it stripped the top of the hole. The more I tried the further the hole stripped. I can get the screw to go in without the footstrap, but not with the strap on. I tried to use thread repair resin as discussed in the link, but this material just pulls out as I try to get the screw in with the footstrap. I did leave the material to set for 24 hours. Any suggestions. It is a little disappointing as the board has not even got wet yet.

Brian Saby

Ola_H
14th April 2008, 11:38 PM
Do you use the K9 anti twist device? If so, try without it. If you get the screw to engage then you can leave the strap like that for a few sessions until everything has compressed a bit, then attach the K9 washer.

When you strip a thread like that you're in a bit of a bad spiral, though. Maybe bad luck at first and then it becomes really difficult.

If the washer removing trick does not help, try the thread repair resin again. Then try very carefully screwing a thinner strap or something else as a placeholder for the strap dwon over night. This can make the foot pad compress a bit. At the same time, wet down the other straps and attach them. They will also compress a bit. The next day, use one of the pre mounted straps in the bad hole. This is all I can think right now.

The thread repair is normally very strong and with a worn in strap and pad there is ample free screw length. So in some way it should be possible to get out of this spiral...

Roger
16th April 2008, 05:20 AM
Hi Brian,
Ola has given you some good solutions here.
I might just add that one way to "compress" everything a bit better might be to
do it in 2 "stages".
First, get a 6mm x 1.0 hexagon or wing nut, and take one of your fin screws (or purchase another shorter 6mm x 1.0 mm screw) and use the screw to compress the K9 lock "points" into the footstrap (try to get the angle as close as you can) put a flat washer on the screw, put the oval toothed washer on next, then put it through the footstrap and index it to as close to the correct angle as you can get.
Then put the K9 lock with thepoint facing up into the footstrap and add another flat washer (a large one if you can find it) below the K9 lock.
Then put on the nut and tighten the whole assembly up so the K9 lock is compressed into the bottom of the footstrap, and the oval toothe washer is compressed into the top side of the footstrap.
As a "2nd stage" take the larger washer and using a new footstrap screw (#6 PS Tech screw 28 mm long) tighten the K9 lock down into the EVA of the deck of your board.
Be sure to index the K9 lock so that the tab goes into one of the slots adjacent to the
screw hole you are trying to use.
I've had the same problem with at least 2 of the 2008 boards I have.
I have heard that in order to solve this "first time" problem with getting the new footstraps onto the newer boards with the 2 hole K9 lock and the fish scale EVA that they will be coming out with a longer screw in the future.
Might want to check with your dealer and see if he can get you a set of the new screws.
Hope this helps,

Floyd
20th April 2008, 09:26 PM
Good advice from everyone.
If none of above works try this. (last resort)
Get a plastic rawl plug .Split it so you get a fairly thin sliver of plastic.(More damaged the thread the bigger the sliver)(Ral plug is ideal material for accepting self taping screw)
Put sliver in hole (to just below depth of damage) and leave a couple of mm protruding.(To help start screw)Carefully start screw (make sure sliver is engaged and not just being compressed)
Before fully tightening carefully remove protruding part with stanley blade.(You will have to get under strap with blade.(be carefull)(You might get awy with leaving it)
Above trick will work even with a matchstick(in place of plastic sliver) but the wood will rot after a couple of seasons. Might be worth a try withmatch first. (In effect you are using a mini rawl plug in insert)
Dont put too big a piece in. (Its how you break screws;which if you do you will be in a worse mess)
BTW I`ve had loads more success with above than any glues/filling.
Other obvious solution is use an oversized screw.(Diameter not length)(I`d do that after above though)
Good luck

Phill104
21st April 2008, 12:41 AM
Why did you not take the board back to your dealer?

Roger
22nd April 2008, 09:30 AM
Hi guys,
For Floyd..... so you've tried the Permatex/LocTite Permanent Thread Repair Kit.....
or something else?
The Permatex/LocTite 2 part thread repair epoxy restores threads in steel and cast iron automotive parts to SAE Grade 5 specs. That should be about 2x as strong plastic.
For everyone else....
Next year the footstrap screws will be 32 mm long (vice the 28 mm they are now) to accomdate the thicker footstraps/K9 locks.
Hope this helps,

LK
22nd April 2008, 01:35 PM
I would prefer they dump the foot straps instead of implementing longer screws. This year’s straps are a joke. It’s almost impossible to stretch them enough to get in barefooted.
Try with winter booties. Changed to the race straps after to days.
Do yourself a favour buy the race straps they are worth the money.

Cheers

Floyd
22nd April 2008, 07:44 PM
Hi Roger
Yes I`ve tried it.Think you`ll find figures for its strength
are quoted in stuff that glue actually sticks to.
I`ve had loads of experience with thread replacement (helicoils/rivnuts/and epoxy fillers)(Kit car industry)
One of major problems with footstraps is the fact that you are mending a plastic.Many plastics are almost impossible to "glue" to.(Try glueing something to a plastic bumper)(Hence plastics are normally welded)
I would almost certyainly bet my "bit of plastic" (actually a rudimentary helicoil) would outperform any filler.Mechanical repairs in my experience are always stronger than "glues".
(Especially in plastics)
Besides my methd is both cheaper;faster and easier.And I would guess stronger.
Try it !!!

Roger
22nd April 2008, 08:58 PM
Hi Floyd,
OK, I'll give it a try.
Where do you get the plastic slivers and what type of plastic
is it?
My experience with the thread repair kits has been different.
I've mostly used it on stripped vent plug holes and it seems to
seal them up really well. I've also done quite a few FS screws with
good results as well.
My use of these products is usually at a race event where someone
has a problem, so we fix it with the thread repair kit and I never
hear anymore.
R

Brian S
24th April 2008, 01:19 AM
Floyd or Roger,
Since this is a "last resort", wouldn't a helicoil work too? You'd just have to change to a machine screw instead of a normal footstrap screw???

brian

Hi Roger
Yes I`ve tried it.Think you`ll find figures for its strength
are quoted in stuff that glue actually sticks to.
I`ve had loads of experience with thread replacement (helicoils/rivnuts/and epoxy fillers)(Kit car industry)
One of major problems with footstraps is the fact that you are mending a plastic.Many plastics are almost impossible to "glue" to.(Try glueing something to a plastic bumper)(Hence plastics are normally welded)
I would almost certyainly bet my "bit of plastic" (actually a rudimentary helicoil) would outperform any filler.Mechanical repairs in my experience are always stronger than "glues".
(Especially in plastics)
Besides my methd is both cheaper;faster and easier.And I would guess stronger.
Try it !!!

Floyd
25th April 2008, 12:14 AM
Helicoils are principally designed to replace lost threads in metal.Forces involved in putting one in place might damage the plastic but I`m not sure.It woul also mean using different screws.(ie machine screws rather than self tapping)
As daft as it sounds best solution for a really damaged thread might well be a simple wood screw rawl plug.(Of appropriate depth /diameter) You wuld have to be very careful drilling out to fit the plug.) Experiment on a bit of old plastic ???