View Full Version : Rigging '08 Gaastra GTX issues
22nd April 2008, 05:37 PM
Anyone have experience rigging a Gaastra GTX? I posted a thread on Gaastra's forum for help but haven't received any feedback as of yet.
I tried the usual technique of sliding the mast (FS 7000) over the cams, attaching the boom, adding some outhaul. Couldn't pop cams onto mast.
Then I took everything apart and slide the mast through the cams. This worked but was a real pain getting the mast all the way in. I was exhausted before I even hit the water.
After sailing, getting the mast out of the sail proved to be just as daunting.
Any thoughts or helpful hints?
Thankfully, the performance was very good.
22nd April 2008, 08:33 PM
The GTX should be rigged by sliding mast through cambers. And yes, in some cases it's easier to rig a pure race sail (Vapor etc) where you pop the cams on. The GTX is nevertheless an excellent product with good performance with which you will have lots of fun.
22nd April 2008, 08:35 PM
I am guessing that you just have to slide the cams over the mast from the beginning. This is pretty standard for small luff sleeve sails like the GTX.
Rigging with the cambers off the mast and popping them on after you down haul and out haul is for the large luff sleeve, 4 cam race sails.
I think you are just going to take the time to work the cambers up the mast. Lubricating your mast with a little McLube (not sure about the spelling) spray may help. In time, the sail material will soften a bit and it will get easier to rig.
23rd April 2008, 02:48 AM
Thanks for the advice. That's what I figured on my second attempt to rig it. Hopefully the luff sleeve will stretch a little over time to make it easier getting the mast in and out.
23rd April 2008, 05:18 PM
Some friends have bought a couple of 2007 GTX, size 8.0 to 9.0
A very good sail in water but a real nightmare in rigging and de-rigging.
So, despite good performances, they want to sell them.
It's a real pity that Gaastra sailmakers haven't use "mast over cambers" rigging procedure in this sail.
24th April 2008, 12:18 AM
Non race sails will probably never have "mast over cambers" rigging. It takes a large luff sleeve for it to work, which will NOT be popular with recreational sailors. You don't want to drop these sails in the water for long since the luff holds A LOT of water.
They are more expensive to make, which again will not be popular with the average sailor.
I am not saying that Gaastra can't do better with the GTX rigging, they probably can. I also can't believe that rigging a two cam sail is that difficult. An extra minute over a no cam sail? I can live with that. I had a GTX 6.5 for several years and it was no big deal to rig. I guess the new ones aren't as user friendly.
24th April 2008, 03:52 AM
Ken said: ..."I had a GTX 6.5 for several years and it was no big deal to rig..."
Sure: rigging old Gaastra was a dream; from 2007 model it has become a stressful operation.
Ken said: ..."Non race sails will probably never have "mast over cambers" rigging..."
Wrong: free-race sails like 2006-2007 North Daytona (three cambers like GTX), USE right a "mast over cambers" rigging procedure.
24th April 2008, 05:30 AM
Thanks for the info. Too many sails out there for me to know how they all rig. The only sails that I have seen that rig with the "mast over cambers" are race sails, but no one in my area sails with North so I have no experience with how they rig.
I never said that the new GTX sails were "no big deal" to rig, I was just commenting on my old GTX. I did say "I guess the new ones aren't as user friendly", which seems to support Blazer's original post where I suggested he try McLube for easier rigging.
24th April 2008, 08:20 AM
I've been rigging NP V8's for several years with my latest one a '05 10.6. All with the mast over camber rigging technique with out any issues. Wasn't too happy with the construction quality on that one so decided to make a switch. Was looking between the GTX and North Ram F8. Due to availability, went with the GTX. I think North is promoting rigging the Ram through the cambers as well.
Granted it was my first time rigging the GTX as well as the first time out this season, I was a little anxious to hit the water. Maybe the next time I'll have the magic touch and rig it a little faster.
I have a can of the McLube and will give that a try next time. Hopefully it gets easier.
The thing that really stunk was de-rigging after a tiring session. It was just as hard getting the mast out of the sail as getting it in.
24th April 2008, 04:26 PM
Gaastra GTX are brilliant sails, I'm very satisfied with these foils. Not as easy and straight forward as compared to rigging no cam free ride sails though, you'll have to gradually and carefully work your way down the mast along the luff of the sail. Once getting used to the slightly harder mast insertion process I don't think rigging the GTX is an issue.
25th April 2008, 05:06 AM
I always rig from new at home cause it's amazing how stiff they are, and you don't want to be rushing it to hit the water. It kinds of makes you wonder how much more stretching is going on after more use, if 3 or 4 times makes such a difference. You do normally end up creasing the luff loads when working up the cams and that's apparently the fastest way to wear the material. I recall Maui sails using a slightly wider sleeve for that reason and it sounds a good idea, although I've not tried one myself.
27th April 2008, 07:52 AM
Ok, just had my second attempt rigging my 8.5 GTX. Went much smoother this time. Just have to take your time inserting the mast through the cambers and pulling down the luff at the cambers starting with the highest one then moving to the lower ones. Maui Sails has a rigging video of their MS-2 that requires inserting the mast through the cambers just like the GTX.
Now, de-rigging was still just as painfull getting the mast out of the luff. Ounce out, I noticed some really nice and vertical scratches on my brand new Fiberspar 7000 mast. At this rate, I'll need a new mast by season end. Sliding the mast through the cambers puts too much stress on the mast.
Are there any recommendations to help prevent mast wear -n- tear during rigging?
It seams the carbon material is softer on the lower section of the mast (gray in color) then the upper section (black in color).
27th April 2008, 12:05 PM
Did you McLube the mast again and again? It really makes a difference to do it LOTS of times because the lubricant gets transferred to the inside of the mast sleeve. Also lube the cams a bunch of times. I did that with an old nitro that I was using on a fat old ck75 neil pryde mast and it really made a difference. McLube aint cheap but it's worth it considering the depreciation of the sail and the mast. Don't be penny wise here.
Still, it was a lot of work not to completely crease the sail each time rigging. I'd consider selling the gtx before the monofilm gets ruined and it's resale value goes down even more...
1st May 2008, 07:14 PM
Gaatra GTX 7,5 was tested in latest Windsurf Magazine (May 2008) and recieved top scores, congratulations.
In the test article it was suggested that cams should be popped on after full mast insertion. The major thing I've previously heard about GTX rigging is that the mast should slide through the cams while rigging. What is the correct method, putting the least stress on luff and cams?
In fact, for nearly all freerace sails in the test it was suggested that cams should be popped on (GTX, V8, Naish SL, Naish Redline, North RAM, North S-type, Severne Overdrive). Only sail where mast was suggested to slide through cams duriing rigging was the Tushingham Lightning. Seems odd....
2nd May 2008, 01:30 AM
That's what I figured and attempted to do the first time. The luff sleeve seems too narrow to allow this, at least on the bottom most cam. Didn't try the others after I couldn't get the bottom one on. I would love to find out the recommended technique as well.
21st October 2008, 06:01 AM
Know this s an old thread but ???
I rig North (an old IQ) and GTX`s (both 07`s) popping cambers on after mast insertion ,a touch of DH and fair bit of outhaul.I also always detension battens on all cams before derigging and re-tension after fully rigging.Sounds a pain but it does make process loads easier.(ie detensioning battens) Takes 2 minutes to tension up battens ???
21st October 2008, 07:52 PM
I have 2 GTX (10.5' 2007 and 8.5' 2008) and i can say that both of them are great sails.
At first when i bought 10.5 i had porblems (cams were popping out of the mast while rigging, the broken the batten on the first derigging, on the second riggind the mast made a hole in the sail sleave, it went through about 20cm from the 3 cam), but after 2-3 rigging/derriging procedures i have found very simple and easy way.
I take the top peace of the mast and slide it through the cams all the way till the end, make sure that the top of the sail sits on the mast good. Don't be afraid of wrinkles, they won't do anything to your sail.
After that i put the bottom part of the mast and downhold the sail carefully.
Derigging is in the opposite way.
Take the boom out, release the sail, take the extension away, then take the mats (~the place where the boom was fixed) with your right hand, with you left one slide the sail towards you (the top of the mast). You will see that step by step the cam tension on the mast will become smaller and smaller. Ass soon as you'll see the mast connection by the downhold rollers take the bottom part of the mast and by holding the sail with the left hand pull the mast out of the sleave with your right one.
This works for me. Now i can rig and derig the sail only by my own. No other people needed to hold the top of the sail while pulling the mast out.
Sorry for my english.
P.S. 10.5 gtx is abit more complicated. After i push the top of the mast and put the bottom part I fix the boom (just putting it on so it could easy slide up and down) outhold the sail a bit and only after that starting to downhold the sail. This helps me to prevent the batten cracks. I wrote that the first time when i was derigging the sail i took off the boom first and when i realeased the sail and started to pull the mast out the 2 batten broke down.
22nd October 2008, 06:37 PM
As previous poster mentioned detensioning battens makes loads of difference but you never see it in any instrution ???
Any reason ???
24th September 2012, 11:47 PM
I have managed to combine these two techniques. First you insert the mast into the bottom cam and bypass the next two cam by sliding the mast over the cams. Just like somebody said earlier that bottom cam can't be popped on after fully downhauled. Then check that top is properly in socket and start downhauling. In some point the mast will be bending just enough to easily pop on the middle cam (might take couple of times to figure the right amount of downhaul). Then continue until the upmost cam can be easily popped on and after that downhaul fully. So you have to pause downhauling two times and stand up to pop the cams if you get familiar with this technique. Not too hard a job and mast will thank you.
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