View Full Version : Tacking with Isonics.
27th January 2010, 11:59 PM
I have had an Is 105 (2006).Now I have changed it for Is 101 (2009).I had already problems in tacking with the 105, now I wonder of this will be better with the 2009.I think it will be worse,
because the nose is thinner. Who has experience with it. Or some good tips to help me.It is here in Holland to cold and to much ice to try it myself. Good tips preventing falling in cold water are welcome.
28th January 2010, 02:11 AM
I have an iS 111 and don't make many successful tacks. Three things that may help.
1. When heading up, you have to tack while the board is still on plane.
2. You have to move from one side to the other very quickly with no pause around the nose.
3. Keep the mast racked back toward the tail, don't pull it up to vertical. This will allow you to keep your weight a little further from the nose.
Then practice, practice, practice (in the summer). This is my weak point, I don't practice often enough.
Anyone else with other helpful hints would be appreciated.
28th January 2010, 03:22 AM
Like ken say's, it's easiest when still planing. The faster the board is moving, the easier it is to get onto the new tack and get going again.
*At full speed, back foot out of strap, leave front in strap, carve up wind but to much or you will lose speed.
*Rack sail towards the back of the board, this will keep you light footed on the nose. Keep sail at arms length all the way through the tack.
*Jump across to the new tack much earlier than normal, use two steps only. Both these things will help maintain speed.
*As soon as your on the new tack, get real low hanging of the boom to get mast foot pressure, kick the the board nose of the wind, sheet in, front foot into strap, pump, and your away.
This should all happen very quickly, quicker than saying "Tiki man" :)
28th January 2010, 07:09 AM
Mark and Ken have given you some great tips here.
Only thing I can add is for you to try to "step over" the leaned all the way back rig
rather than shifting your weight forward enough to sneak you front foot around in front of the mast base.
Try it, it works and your board will stay planing much further through your tack as it's shifting your weight forward that takes the board off plane and sinks the nose.
If you can "step over" and never get your weight up near the mast foot, you can then do exactly what Ken and Mark are suggesting.
I tack an iSonic 111 all the time at 180 lbs.
Hope this helps,
29th January 2010, 01:10 AM
Hi Ken, Mark H and Roger.
Thanks for your comments.I think it will be a matter of excercises.
I have to do it, because on my home spot there are two lakes connected by a short and small
channel and the second lake has less chop,that is why I prefer it.
My English is not so good, that is the reason, why I do not completely understand your " step over" technics.Is there maybe a picture available so I can understand you.
The way I try to do it is the way by Guy Cribb. See article the twist.(www.GuyCribb.com).
The best results I obtain with a strong wind.When it is not so windy, than I mostly swim.
Roger I am waiting for your answer.Thanks till so far.
29th January 2010, 10:33 AM
Hi Jan W.
To the best of my knowledge, there are no photos.
Think of it this way.....
when you tack, you must carve the board up into the wind, keeping as much power in the rig for as long as you can, being careful not to oversheet and stall the rig.
You are going to come out of the footstraps, and move forward some on the board, that is a given.
What I am suggesting, and what works for me, is to not come forward any sooner or any further than you need to step over the mast (the sail is raked all the way back until the foot of the sail is pretty much resting on the tail of the board) to avoid coming all the way forward up to the mast foot.
This allows the board to continue to carve and plane up into the wind, and then simply take your front foot and place it on the other side of the board so that momentarily you are facing the back of the board with one foot on one side of the rig, and the other foot on the other side of the rig.
Then pivot around so both feet are on the new windward side and move back, drop your weight on the rig and begin to sheet into bring the nose off the wind.
By doing this, you weight stays further aft (back toward the tail) on the board and your weight never gets forward of about 12-18" (0.3-0.5 m) behind the mast foot.
The further you move your weight forward, the more you sink the nose and the more the board slows down.
If you don't understand my english, ask some more questions and we can work through this.
Hope this helps,
29th January 2010, 11:05 PM
Hi Roger thanks for the effort you put in to make things clear to me. Am I right if I say,that the only difference in your technics is that your feet stay behind the masttrack and the other parts
are almost the same according to Ken and Mark H. You step over and they go in front of the mast.
Is tacking with a Futura easier due to other shape?
30th January 2010, 03:27 AM
The extra length of the Futura will make it easier to tack, feeling more like a normal length freeride board.
Don't be put off by the shorter noses. There are many ways to fast tack very short slalom boards, each one personal to the rider. After a few sessions, you will definetly find out what works for you.
The new style of fast tacking was a must for the Hypersonic, and has been refined since. Once mastered, you will be tacking in any water and wind state:)
30th January 2010, 04:52 AM
There is really no difference between what I said and Roger, the only important point is where you place your feet after you step (around or over) the mast. And that is that your feet should be behind the mast foot. Leaning the mast back toward the back of the board makes it easier to step (over or around) the mast while keeping the feet behind the mast foot.
30th January 2010, 10:56 PM
Hi Ken and Mark H. Thanks for the possitive remarks. I hope,that in april I can start again with
windsurfing. Till so far I will do the excersizes in mind and in april physical if the water is not too cold. If there are problems then I will contact you.
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