View Full Version : Futura 133.Cut my losses?

5th September 2010, 04:29 PM
I've recently bought a 2009 F133. I'm 6ft1 and 93 kl. I'm finding the Futura really tippy. There's little volume in front of the mast, so tacking can be really tricky. I recently went on a Neilson Holiday and tried the Futura 155 which I loved. I mostly use sails from 6.5 - 8.5. Should i cut my losses whilst the 133 is still in excellent condition and get a 155 or if I soldier on will I get better and find the 133 OK?
Any help would be welcome

5th September 2010, 10:54 PM

The answer to your question depends on your typical sailing conditions and your skill level. The F133 isn't too small for someone your size if you are at least an intermediate skilled sailor (water starts and making most jibes). This assumes you have enough wind to plane when you go out on the board with an 8.5 (15+knots a rough guess).

Give us a little more information. What were you sailing before the F133? Skill level? Typical conditions? Quiver of sails and other boards?

5th September 2010, 11:10 PM
Hi Andy,
I agree with Ken's analysis..... a little more information will assist us in giving you good answers.
As far as your tacking on the F-133, you can change your technique and tacking will not be a problem.
Instead of moving forward of the mast foot during your tacks (my guess would be you learned to tack on
a longboard or something really large like a Start or Rio) try this:
1/ Initiate your tack by putting the foot of the sail right down on the deck of the board.
(This assumes you are out of both footstraps and ready to begin your tack with your board off plane!) This will "DRIVE" the nose of the board right up into the wind. Keep the rig all the way back and down, and progressively sheet the sail in to ensure you get the upwind drive and turning moment.
2/ When the board has turned up fully into the wind (i.e. wind is coming right over the nose) step your front foot over the "leaned/raked back" mast so your are facing the back of the board with one foot on each side of the mast.
3/ Pivot around your new back foot and bring the new front foot over the leaned/raked back mast.
Sweep the sail out perpendicular on the new tack and sail away.
The idea here is to never move your weight in front of the mast foot where you need nose volume to keep the board moving and support your weight.
If you keep your weight behind the mast foot (in the most floaty and stable area of the F-133) you won't have issues with the nose sinking.
This works well on all boards, large and small, longboard or shortboard, and actually will have you tacking both much faster and will less loss of speed and less downwind drift.
Hope this helps,

6th September 2010, 03:28 PM
Hi Guy's
Thanks for the advice. My other board is a SB Hybrid Race and I traded an F-Type 158 when I bought the Futura. I recently moved to Spain and where I now sail there is often little wind until you get out 1/2 a mile. Once I am out I am OK providing it's not too choppy. If the wind dies and there is chop I struggle. There are often few other sailors and only rescue cover in July/August. I've been sailing for many years, but mainly on long boards or boards such as the F-Type with big sails.My water starting is OK if there is wind but uphauling can often be needed. I bought the Futura to try and master gybing.
A local shop has anExcite Ride 160 (2008) which they will do a deal on but I think the Futura will ultimately be the better board. Should my balance improve with practice?
Confused Andy

6th September 2010, 08:57 PM
I would keep the Futura 133. It feels a bit tricky at first but it's so much fun in the near future for you. I guess you'll have problems even with 160l board if the wind goes down and it's still choppy. Just take big enough sail and you'll soon learn how to handle Futura. Once you get it going you won't give it away :-)

6th September 2010, 11:38 PM
The 133 has enough float for you, it is just a matter of where the float is located. As Roger noted, the 133’s nose is much slimmer then the rest of the board so much less stable up there and a change in tacking technique is needed. Another option to Roger’s technique of tacking shortboards is to go around the mast before the nose crosses the wind to the new tack and backwinding the sail. This method works because the board is still moving so when you step on the nose the board still support’s your weight without sinking. Of course, the difficulty is being able to backwind sail. I find this method to be the best for me especially when schlogging a sinker.

But however you do it, you need to practice in light wind and flat, shallow water so you can build muscle memory. Most people only practice tacks after a long reach instead of practicing tacks for 30 minutes in a small area. A little practice in light wind will save you much pain when the wind picks up because you will have the built in muscle memory.


mark h
6th September 2010, 11:58 PM
Good advice from all, these boards cost plenty so dont give up on it as yet. Before setting off, check all ropes, deck plate etc, and take a mobile phone with you, you will be suprised how much safer you feel when venturing out to sea on your own having done all these checks/precautions. As for tacking, like stated above, go earlier than normal, the board will be travelling faster which in turn makes the board more stable.

7th September 2010, 06:03 PM
Thanks for all the advice. I went out yesterday in lumpy seas and gusty wind. I tried everything that had been advised and did much better. I felt far more confident and relaxed. I seemed to be putting my feet in the right places automatically.
When I got on the plane the board felt so much better than larger models and way faster.
Once again thanks for the advice, I'm going to stick with it.


7th September 2010, 09:13 PM

You are just making the "transition" from a big board to an intermediate board. We all have gone through similar problems as we progressed to smaller boards so there is nothing unique about this.

As for tacking the board, it's just a matter of moving quickly with no stopping at the front. It's just one side to the other on one quick movement. You can actually practice this with a broom stick (as a mast to step around) or you can practice the moves with your rig on the beach. Lay a towel down to simulate the board and get used to to the foot movements. After a few dozen tries, it will start to become automatic.

However, practicing the tack on the water will give you more practice uphauling when you fall off.

12th September 2010, 05:43 PM
Andy, once practicing at shallow water, you may want to try to improve the low-wind gybe too. When tacking, the board can come to a complete halt or even sail backwards. The board gives you the least support when you need it the most. Though you loose some height gybing, the board is moving all the time and thus more stable through the manoeuvre.
Try this: Once the board is starting to turn downwind, sheet the sail in. It might feel counterintuitive at first, but it works well. At some point the wind will start to flow clew-to-mast and will pull you immediately to the new direction. You sail clew first and can wait with flipping the rig until you feel stable.


12th September 2010, 10:30 PM
Hi ilan_s;
Hmmmm.... this might work for an experienced sailor, who is ready for the "immediate take up" when the wind gets around on the new frontside of the sail.
But, if you oversheet, in the midlle of any jibe with much speed, the board will simply "straighten out"
and sail off downwind, and until you get the rig back out on one side or the other, you cannot steer.
Actually, to drive a board quickly around a jibe the best sail handling "things you can do" are to rake the
rig well upwind so the rig has lots of "turning power" when it's well sheeted out, and also to balance the rig over the mast foot so it will spin/pivot more quickly (with less effort on the sailors part) when you let go with the back hand.
You can sail out "clew first" (by not letting go with the back hand) but this is a more advanced move, more suitable for small sinker wave boards that will stop almost instantly if you remove all power by flipping the sail.
Until you can explain to me how this works, I would not recommend "over sheeting" during a jibe, unless you have "speed to burn".
Yes, to initiate a fully carving jibe at very high speed, oversheeting a bit right at first, can pull the sailor over onto the lee rail, and really help the initation of the jibe, but unless you are going super fast, and can afford the loss of power and speed, oversheeting is very counter productive as it will kill your speed and the power in the sail when you need it most to drive your board through the jibe.
Hope this helps,

13th September 2010, 01:39 AM
Hi Roger,
I was aiming solely at schlogging-gybe. If you have, say, a half a mile to come out of the wind-shade of hotels on the beach, a gybe is “safer” then a tack even if you climb upwind.
I picked this technique at one of Peter Hart’s videos and found it both effective and easy to learn.

13th September 2010, 09:59 AM
Hi ilan_s,
Any idea which of Peter Hart's videos you found this technique on?
I'd like very much to see how this works.
That said, if you try the "step over the mast... stay behind the mast foot " technique I described above,
I think you will find that you gain significant ground upwind, and can tack very nicely, even in the lightest
of winds on just about any board that will float you.
Fore and aft balance/trim gets a bit tricky on < 100 liter boards, but if you stay back, and step over the mast, keeping your weight in the wider and more floaty area of the board behind the mast foot, and figure out how far apart to place your feet to maintain fore and aft balance/trim..

13th September 2010, 02:54 PM
Thanks for all the advice. I've got loads to practise now!!

13th September 2010, 11:58 PM
Hi Roger,
Serious About Waves #1. About 35 minutes into the film.
Even on much bigger boards, I find it tricky to tack if the wind is very low and the water is choppy.