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18th October 2006 06:03 PM
RobSwift
RE: changing footstrap positions

Roger, thanks for all the info. I'm looking around in local hardware and auto parts stores for that Permatex product.
17th October 2006 06:40 AM
Roger
RE: changing footstrap positions

Hi Ian, Steve, and WSGuy,
The Permatex-Locktite Thread Repair Compound is NOT a "thread locker" (although LockTite is famous for their many different grades of "thread lockers").
It's a completely different product that results in high pull out strength
basically new threads after it sets up completely.
Another "option" for Tectonics (and other high end fins with the fin screw threads tapped directly into the G-10 or the casting plastic the fin head is formed from is to use a Keen-Sert SS thread insert.
Just tap the hole to the next oversize (.25-20 UNC gets tapped to .312- 18 UNC) and install the threaded stainless steel insert.
Then drive the locking keys in and you have a very high strength fastening method.
Biggest problem with Tectonics, is that Dennis puts the holes with the threads in them precisely where Larry Tuttle's drawings specify they should be, but if you don't "slot" the fin screw holes in your board, you often end up with a little misalignment. This causes alot of problems and prematurely wears the threads in the G-10 and fin head plastic.
Wish all the board mfg.'s would use Larry's drawings and tolerances (especially for hole locations). Then everything would fit pretty much interchangeably.
Hope this helps,
17th October 2006 02:25 AM
steveC
RE: changing footstrap positions

Hi Ian,

I understand where you are coming from going with the optimum fin fix using the brass threaded inserts. Truely, it's the best possible fix for stripped fin threads. Earlier, I discussed this repair approach with Chuck Ames of True Ames fins (his firm is located just a few miles away), and he indicated that he would gladly install the brass inserts for me. I just haven't done it yet. Also, given the fact that the stripped thread is the rear one on a Tuttle base, it's my thought that the Cadillac repair isn't as much of a necessity. In any case, your post above greatly appreciated, and I know that many will find advantage in this best possible repair strategy.

16th October 2006 09:17 PM
WSguy
RE: changing footstrap positions

Thanks Roger. I filled the crack with 2-ton 2-part epoxy and screwed the strap in while it was still wet. With this board, I decided to keep the straps in one position and not bother to move them around. If this repair doesn't hold up, I'll try the one you recommend. I'm also going to bookmark that URL and perhaps pick up a stripped thread kit for my shop.
16th October 2006 02:56 PM
Ian Fox
RE: changing footstrap positions

Steve, Roger's totally right on the threadlock, it has saved the day on more than one occasion, but if you're big or powerful or gonna change it often or just plain go hard on it, for the stripped epoxy TT thread get some brass threaded fin inserts (old fin or local dealer's old fins if you can't find these easily).

Drill down (drilling out) the threaded (stripped) tapped threads to oversize the hole, then carefully drill sideways thru the TT head to insert the brass thread inserts. There's a few pointers to be aware of, most notably accurate setup and square 90' drilling (use a workshop drill press, esp for the sideways insert hole/s. And overdrill (not toooo much) the depth of the bolt holes by a few mm deeper than the bottom of the insert holes ; this allows the fin bolts to screw thryu the insert and out the other side- at least a little_ before they start to impact into the base material, at which point extra tension starts to pull the insert right thru the top of the base material and or even

Sounds complex, with the inserts in one hand and the drill press in front of you, it's a no brainer and brings an otherwise good fin back to full and reliable long term service.

Cheers ~ Ian
16th October 2006 12:44 AM
steveC
RE: changing footstrap positions

Hi Roger,

I really appreciate your insert fix outlined above. Its good stuff to know. While I have never had a problem with inserts stripping out, I currently have a Tectonics Goldwing where one of the tapped threads is stripped. Sounds like a perfect fix for my problem. Many thanks.

15th October 2006 11:26 PM
Roger
RE: changing footstrap positions

Hi Rob,
You can fix that "partially stripped" or cracked insert quite easily.
Get a Permatex or Lock-Tite Stripped Thread Repair Kit"
Here's a link:
http://www.accessconnect.com/loctite_threadlocker_.htm
Simply coat a new footstrap screw with the blue "release agent" that comes in the kit, then mix up a little of the 2 part epoxy thread reapir
compound, push the compound down into your stripped or cracked FS insert hole with a tooth pick or other suitable small round tool.
Put enough compound in so it looks like the damaged hole will "overflow" slightly when you screw the blue release agent coated screw into the hole.
Install the screw into the compound filled hole slightly further than it would go with the foostrap webbing, the anti-twist device, and any washers you use under the head.
Let the compound set up.
Remove the screw, countersink the hole slightly to remove any "compound overflow" and you'll have a nicely repaired FS screw
insert that has very nearly as great a "pull out strength" and torque retention value as a brand new insert.
It's good stuff to have in your repair kit.
Fixes stripped fn screw barrel nuts or threads in the head of fins (like Tectonics does), loose fin screw barrel nuts, stripped vent plug threads and stripped footstrap screw inserts.
Hope this helps,
15th October 2006 11:26 PM
Roger
RE: changing footstrap positions

Hi Rob,
You can fix that "partially stripped" or cracked insert quite easily.
Get a Permatex or Lock-Tite Stripped Thread Repair Kit"
Here's a link:
http://www.accessconnect.com/loctite_threadlocker_.htm
Simply coat a new footstrap screw with the blue "release agent" that comes in the kit, then mix up a little of the 2 part epoxy thread reapir
compound, push the compound down into your stripped or cracked FS insert hole with a tooth pick or other suitable small round tool.
Put enough compound in so it looks like the damaged hole will "overflow" slightly when you screw the blue release agent coated screw into the hole.
Install the screw into the compound filled hole slightly further than it would go with the foostrap webbing, the anti-twist device, and any washers you use under the head.
Let the compound set up.
Remove the screw, countersink the hole slightly to remove any "compound overflow" and you'll have a nicely repaired FS screw
insert that has very nearly as great a "pull out strength" and torque retention value as a brand new insert.
It's good stuff to have in your repair kit.
Fixes stripped fn screw barrel nuts or threads in the head of fins (like Tectonics does), loose fin screw barrel nuts, stripped vent plug threads and stripped footstrap screw inserts.
Hope this helps,
13th October 2006 06:21 PM
RobSwift
RE: changing footstrap positions

It wasn't on a Starboard, but I cracked a footstrap screw insert. I think it was due to moving the straps around on the board i.e. pulling the screws out and putting them back. I stopped doing this. The crack wasn't bad and holds the footstrap, but I don't want it to get worse.
10th October 2006 06:44 AM
Roger
RE: changing footstrap positions

Hello Screamer,
It's like almost any other "mechanical fastening" system.
If you use the correct tool (a high quaility #3 Phillips screwdriver with a
hardened and surface treated #3 Phillips drive on the end); you
"lubricate" the threads (by rubbing a bar of soap on the threads of the screw), and do not use high speed (rotational speed here) "Power Drivers" you can expect your footstrap screws and the inserts to last almost forever, certainly well beyond the normal life cycle of a board.
When you move your footstraps, try to get the screw to start in the "already formed" threads in insert holes that have been used before, and re-lubricate them each time with a small bar of bath soap.
If you use "power screwdrivers" that rotate the screw fast enough to generate friction related heating of the screw, don't lube the screws to make them go in easily and significantly tighter, or use a tool without the correct #3 Phillips geometry plus heat treatment and surface coating to preserve the integrity of the Phillips drive recess, then you will almost surely end up with some degree of premature insert damage or failure.
I've seen a few new boards that had poor quality inserts that stripped out very quickly, but for the majority of "premature failures" of FS screw inserts, there was a definite "cause" mostly related to one or more of the above installation no-no's.
Hope this helps,
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