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Topic Review (Newest First)
13th September 2010 11:58 PM
ilan_s Hi Roger,
Serious About Waves #1. About 35 minutes into the film.
Even on much bigger boards, I find it tricky to tack if the wind is very low and the water is choppy.
13th September 2010 02:54 PM
Andy Thanks for all the advice. I've got loads to practise now!!
Andy
13th September 2010 09:59 AM
Roger Hi ilan_s,
Any idea which of Peter Hart's videos you found this technique on?
I'd like very much to see how this works.
That said, if you try the "step over the mast... stay behind the mast foot " technique I described above,
I think you will find that you gain significant ground upwind, and can tack very nicely, even in the lightest
of winds on just about any board that will float you.
Fore and aft balance/trim gets a bit tricky on < 100 liter boards, but if you stay back, and step over the mast, keeping your weight in the wider and more floaty area of the board behind the mast foot, and figure out how far apart to place your feet to maintain fore and aft balance/trim..
Roger
13th September 2010 01:39 AM
ilan_s Hi Roger,
I was aiming solely at schlogging-gybe. If you have, say, a half a mile to come out of the wind-shade of hotels on the beach, a gybe is “safer” then a tack even if you climb upwind.
I picked this technique at one of Peter Hart’s videos and found it both effective and easy to learn.
.
12th September 2010 10:30 PM
Roger Hi ilan_s;
Hmmmm.... this might work for an experienced sailor, who is ready for the "immediate take up" when the wind gets around on the new frontside of the sail.
But, if you oversheet, in the midlle of any jibe with much speed, the board will simply "straighten out"
and sail off downwind, and until you get the rig back out on one side or the other, you cannot steer.
Actually, to drive a board quickly around a jibe the best sail handling "things you can do" are to rake the
rig well upwind so the rig has lots of "turning power" when it's well sheeted out, and also to balance the rig over the mast foot so it will spin/pivot more quickly (with less effort on the sailors part) when you let go with the back hand.
You can sail out "clew first" (by not letting go with the back hand) but this is a more advanced move, more suitable for small sinker wave boards that will stop almost instantly if you remove all power by flipping the sail.
Until you can explain to me how this works, I would not recommend "over sheeting" during a jibe, unless you have "speed to burn".
Yes, to initiate a fully carving jibe at very high speed, oversheeting a bit right at first, can pull the sailor over onto the lee rail, and really help the initation of the jibe, but unless you are going super fast, and can afford the loss of power and speed, oversheeting is very counter productive as it will kill your speed and the power in the sail when you need it most to drive your board through the jibe.
Hope this helps,
Roger
12th September 2010 05:43 PM
ilan_s Andy, once practicing at shallow water, you may want to try to improve the low-wind gybe too. When tacking, the board can come to a complete halt or even sail backwards. The board gives you the least support when you need it the most. Though you loose some height gybing, the board is moving all the time and thus more stable through the manoeuvre.
Try this: Once the board is starting to turn downwind, sheet the sail in. It might feel counterintuitive at first, but it works well. At some point the wind will start to flow clew-to-mast and will pull you immediately to the new direction. You sail clew first and can wait with flipping the rig until you feel stable.

.
7th September 2010 09:13 PM
Ken Andy,

You are just making the "transition" from a big board to an intermediate board. We all have gone through similar problems as we progressed to smaller boards so there is nothing unique about this.

As for tacking the board, it's just a matter of moving quickly with no stopping at the front. It's just one side to the other on one quick movement. You can actually practice this with a broom stick (as a mast to step around) or you can practice the moves with your rig on the beach. Lay a towel down to simulate the board and get used to to the foot movements. After a few dozen tries, it will start to become automatic.

However, practicing the tack on the water will give you more practice uphauling when you fall off.
7th September 2010 06:03 PM
Andy Thanks for all the advice. I went out yesterday in lumpy seas and gusty wind. I tried everything that had been advised and did much better. I felt far more confident and relaxed. I seemed to be putting my feet in the right places automatically.
When I got on the plane the board felt so much better than larger models and way faster.
Once again thanks for the advice, I'm going to stick with it.

Andy
6th September 2010 11:58 PM
mark h Good advice from all, these boards cost plenty so dont give up on it as yet. Before setting off, check all ropes, deck plate etc, and take a mobile phone with you, you will be suprised how much safer you feel when venturing out to sea on your own having done all these checks/precautions. As for tacking, like stated above, go earlier than normal, the board will be travelling faster which in turn makes the board more stable.
6th September 2010 11:38 PM
COACHG Andy,
The 133 has enough float for you, it is just a matter of where the float is located. As Roger noted, the 133’s nose is much slimmer then the rest of the board so much less stable up there and a change in tacking technique is needed. Another option to Roger’s technique of tacking shortboards is to go around the mast before the nose crosses the wind to the new tack and backwinding the sail. This method works because the board is still moving so when you step on the nose the board still support’s your weight without sinking. Of course, the difficulty is being able to backwind sail. I find this method to be the best for me especially when schlogging a sinker.

But however you do it, you need to practice in light wind and flat, shallow water so you can build muscle memory. Most people only practice tacks after a long reach instead of practicing tacks for 30 minutes in a small area. A little practice in light wind will save you much pain when the wind picks up because you will have the built in muscle memory.

Coachg
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