|6th January 2014 02:02 AM|
We switch to blue for UV protection, actually in the grey you have white and black and the white turn yellow with the sun and also the variation sanding was to much visible for customers. The blue reduce this by quiet a lot, so board have a better finish look compare to the Grey one. But still an unfinished paint board to save weight who make us an weight advantage on other manufacture on top of our full carbon construction while many other contenders are in glass on bottom.
Hope this help to understand.
All the best
|3rd January 2014 04:59 PM|
Kapten K, surely the wood version would be more benificial in the smaller sizes to help soften the chop, but what do I know.....?
Hi Markus, not so keen on the blue myself but have no idea if the UV resisting carbon can be made in any other colour? Does seem a coincidence that Neil Pryde have made sails to Match perfectly with these blue boards doesn't it?
|31st December 2013 10:19 PM|
|kapten k||If you dond like the blue. you can always get the wood version. considering you sailed starboard fo 10 years you wwould like the wood! I personally hate wood in a slalom board.. i liked the shape and innovation of starboard. but hated the wood construction for slalom boards. even my 1998 bic vivaces was carbon top and bottom.. dont like the glass bottom on smaller slalom boards either! i think all started using more glass since 2008 when carbon prices went up. The 2006 mantas are all carbon. but the 2008s had glass bottom. I dont mind the color at all. i buy board bases on shape construction and performance. I wish they all looked the same so my wife would not see when i change them! perfect for a 2011 to 2013 swap! just orderd a 2014 isonic 90 because that tail looks sick! i recon it will really perfom as a light wind speedboard also!|
|31st December 2013 02:00 PM|
Color 2014 on the isonics
This has probably been discussed before, but I eanted to give my personal feedback after using Starboards for more than 10 years.
I really like the boards, bith for it's performance and design.
But what happened 2014 with the isonic design? Blue???
I know the boards werent UV resistant, I have that problem und my 2k13 isonics. But why didi you guys pick blue? Ok it might look good for people whi use Severne and like strange colors, but for me it's the worst design change you made in the boards.
Thats actually one main reason I wont buy those 2014 boards an hope for a neutral design in 2015!
|2nd November 2013 09:39 AM|
Tail kick is a funny thing ...
If I was to look at the boards that have been modified on the PWA this season (legally, just resanding/filling back to their original designed shape because they've come out of production completely wrong) it's easy to see a lot of boards - Tabou, Fanatic, RRD etc have boards being sanded by their riders and I've failed to ever see a Starboard sanded by any rider ...
Designing a board is one thing... building it is another.
Agree with Remi on all points regarding the tail kick. Easier to just not have it ;-)
|31st October 2013 10:51 PM|
Congrats for a great line up this year but I have to say this 107 vs 110 choice is now more confusing than ever. I am 70kg and want a board which I will use only with a 7.8 NP Racing sail (11-18 knots on flat to choppy water). I already have a 2013 iSonic 97 as my main board for my NP 7.0 & 6.4 racing sails. And I know your recommendation will be the 110 for me but the 75cm width scares me somewhat and I think at 16-18 knots I will get bounced around a lot. To be honest I think an RRD 114 (70cm width but with extra volume) would be the perfect board for me (and correct me if I'm wrong but the extra volume over the iS 110 would make it plane pretty much the same and at 70cm wide I would have more control). But I have been a Starboard man for 7 yrs now and I'm a bit addicted to the brand. What do you say.
|30th September 2013 06:27 PM|
|mcross19||So the tolerance for a Starboard is +/- 3mm on tail kick? That would make a big difference to how any board feels!|
|25th September 2013 09:14 PM|
I will not come back to tail kick because discover that is better to work with out line and tuck line to get more performances but also a more smooth board unless I discover something new. Development have to keep your mind open for anything.
Have fun this week end.
All the best
|25th September 2013 09:00 AM|
Thanks for the reaction. So actually you can't entirely design/make an ultimate board because of the limitations of the production proces.
That makes me curious. If you didn't had these limitations and it would be possible to ad some tailkick..........would you do it in the 107 & 130, having in mind that the rest stays the same?
This weekend there is some wind predicted............really curious what speeds they achieve.
Greetings from they other side of the world.....
|24th September 2013 03:26 AM|
Correct non of the iSonic have tail Kick but can notice also they are also the much narrow in the tail wet surface.
This replace in better way the tail kick, on top of that tail kick who can be perfect on proto can be a disaster in production. If my perfect proto had for example 3mm tail kick in production he can be 0 to 5 or 6 mm and this have very negative effect on the board.
so since some years I eliminate progressively completely tail kick on all iSonic but not only.
It make me work in different way and play a lot with outline and tuck like to find the perfect balance.
Basically better to play with this than tail kick to fix the rocker.
hope this help and let us know after your test what you feel about them.
All the best
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