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6th February 2007 05:34 PM
RE: s-type 126

I'm trying to attach the map once more...
6th February 2007 05:18 PM
RE: S-type 126

Well When I told 5-6 beaufort, in fact that's when I am close to the beach, the farer you get the harder it blows. That's why I'll stick to the 126Dram.

I'm trying to attach the spot where I'll be surfing with wind directions, my usual path and wind strengths... The gulf is surrounded by 300Mt high hills end the back-end of the beach (on the right) has a mountain 900Mt like a wall, so in fact you see the wind is tunelling between and getting stronger as the end of the gulf gets narrow, but when it reaches the beach it looses its power because of the mountain in the back...

Anyway, I still think the ST126 is a good choice. I still didn't get someone to direct me to some picture of the side cuts though! (I don't think they are side cuts such as the Isonic).
6th February 2007 03:46 PM

70kg, 20kts != ST126 or even ST137!
Only way to have fun in those conditions is to surf as inefficiently as possible == no improvement possible because too scary
6th February 2007 12:11 AM
RE: S-type 126

Thanx a lot for all the information folks.

Here are the principle reasons I want to go for the s-type 126, a wood version was tested in the German Surf magazine (I used to read it when I was 14, at 34 it is still existing and is still very credible!). They perform like no other, they are fast, you can power-jibe easily (it is also reported that it turn with a narrower curve than the carve>). The 126 and 137 have a reputation for a freeride to freerace board, carves are simply freerides. The only competitor seems to be JP supersport...

I know what side cuts are, but it irritates me not to see them on the boards picture! Go and see the JP supersport for example, they emphasize all those characteristics with pop-up close up shots!
5th February 2007 10:07 PM

at your weight I would suggest an ST104 as the largest option (I had one and weighed at least 10 kg more than you). If you really have ~ 20 kts it will already be a handful for you. I know people your weight who would prefer a C111 (had one too, but dropped it for the ST and didn't regret it)
5th February 2007 09:49 PM

i did some checkup on the board u said u used. You say you used a 2005 RRd 125L board, the only one i can find on the 2005 RRD site is the SX, which is a freecarve baord. So i think, if you want to stay with a board like that, which you probably liked, you should consider a SB Carve rather then an s-type. s-type ride different then the carves which are more forgivable boards and have a bigger range of conditions then the s-type. . . Also for recreative use the carves are highly recommended because of their agileness.
But in the end it's all up to you... there'll be plenty who say i'm wrong, thats been proven before.

5th February 2007 08:21 PM

You have to watch out a bit with the s-types, they are harder to ride then the rrd's who are more freeride. I can sugggest a carve boar with a simular volume. Carves are easier to ride, have a wider sail range and have a bigger range of public then the s-type...
don'"t worry too much about side cuts, they are just like carves in the boards that reduce friction, but if you want to see them clearly check the F2-website (along with mistral still leading in windsurf, don't reject the elder brands).
I must admitt that in my experience these new boards are more frigile. especially due to heat changes... thats when starboard is the best choice with it's centre screw to relieve pressure that builds up because of this heat. Baords come out of cool water into warm sun, that can end in disaster. I had a mistral n-trance which was completely distroyed because of it, the endtire bottom got torn open by one little scratch after we had driven through italy that year and pressure built up, we put the board in cool Dutch water, good windsurf but it was the end of that board.
Another this is scratches. These are lighter boards but they scrach quite easily compared to older boards (i may be young but vintage is my side hobby ) . soft handeling is important if you want to keep ypur board in shape and i also suggest you buy Dram which is more durable then Wood.
Also, if you put these on the roof of your car you have to put them on with the top down alse you can dent the bottom, which oin it's own isn't really a problem and doesn't infect sailing too much but may lead of other problems.
Further more, check out what there is on the marked. When i started surfing again 3 years ago i had the same and ended up with mistral again, but i bought a beginner progressive board which wasn't my best choice though i learned a lot very fast. A year after i bought my starboard Go139 which also i progressive but which you can use much longer because of it's smaller volume and because of it's sailrange (if i buy a smaller freeride, i'll use the Go for speed purpouses, it's a beauty!!)
Any more specifics? feel free to ask away, thats why there's this forum!!

Have a blast and good luck!
5th February 2007 07:16 PM


It's my first message in this site. Well it's been a while since I didn't surf, I decided to restart last year and was very surprized at the development of this sport.

I stopped windsurfing in the early 90's, were a 2,85 board was already a sinker. I found myself onboard a 2,5Mt 126RRD in Alacati Turkey this year and it was unbelievably user-friendly and fun!

Conclusion: I decided to buy a Starboard (even the scenery of this sector has changed a lot: We used to know Mistral and fanatic as the best boards, now it's a brand I never heard of before with head offices in Thailand! that's called globalization).

Here is are my questions:

1- My weight is 70Kg and I used rented a 2005 126RRD last year without problems, do you think I could use a 126 S-type DRAM without major problems? (I'll sail in Turkey again, 5-6 beaufort with a 6,2 saber NP and rather chopy water conditions).

2- They are talking about side-cuts on the 126 and 136 on the site, but I can't see them on the pop-up picture. Does anyone have a picture of the cuts??

3- The newer generation of boards seem more fragile (compared to the designs in the 80-90's), what are most common damages, how do you avoid them?

Thanks for all the helpfull advice!

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