Wood Ding Repair
I have a F160 and have read about the various ways to repair a board, but here is the issue:
The ding (less than 1 cm on the deck) was apparently caused by a knot in the uphaul or?
The ding is no more than 3mm deep.
I tested the ding with soapy water & it bubbles when the board is hot with the plug closed.
Is there a way to seal this up without going through the "layer of fiberglass" routine or "a glob of ding stick".
A lump of clear epoxy possibly?
Cut out the damaged wood and fill with epoxy (1.5 cm diameter)? The area is so small, I hate to over do it.
Thanks for any advice.
If it were mine I wouldnt start digging out any material which will only need replacing. I`d get some clear epoxy (even araldite?) and fill indentation.If its on part of board requiring non-slip its quite easy to sprinkle non-slip powder over it.(It will even help disguise repair)
I wouldnt use epoxy putty or anything requiring sanding down.
If you require a smooth finish cover partially set repair with a small piece of clear plastic film;gently smooth over plastic film with a damp cloth; it leaves a gloss finish on epoxy. I
You can use textured / sand paper to give non-slip finish in a similar way to above( rather than powder.. experiment on a piece of wood or something) At first particles stick to the epoxy but they will wear off to leave a textured finish..You can match non-slip with different grades of paper (I`ve found this gives a better non-slip than powder but powder hides more???)
Experiment a bit.
If it aint broke dont mend it !!!
Really annoying when that happens Ken, I throw my NP uphaul rope (mega knot) away after doing the same thing as you. I got a cheap uphaul with a smaller knot.
On my current and past formula boards, I usually just put 1 x thin layer of glass matt over the affected area, if you keep it thin, it blends in pretty well as you can still see the wood through it.
Alternatively, drill a 3mm hole and inject "slow drying" epoxy resin into it.
Im sure you will know about http://www.boardlady.com/index.htm great for pointers, but Im not sure why "he" calls him self "boardlady" :)
She calls herself the "Boardlady" because she is a woman.
Proboably one of the best racing sailboat designers (a few years ago) in the USA.
Many very successful racing yachts were built in her custom boat building yard
in San Diego.
She still is a great composites designer/engineer and she knows of what she speaks.
She can repair most boards with severe damage so that you cannot tell they were ever repaired.
Painstakingly detail oriented, but that's what it takes to make some of our toys structurally and
cosmetically like new.
Her name is Eva Holliman.
My apologize to Eva:) I don't know why I thought a man was running the repair centre.
I will try Mark's 3mm drill solution, but I don't know that the epoxy I have is slow drying. It's a West Systems repair kit. The epoxy info says that it will gel in 2-3 hours and cure to a solid state in 5-7 hours at 70 degrees. My house is 80F so it will be a bit faster. Outside it's 103F, so I won't be outside.
It comes with a filler material that can be mixed with the epoxy for a thicker mix. Is this a good idea to fill the hole? Seems like it would be better for filling the void, but would it work better with a thinner mix that will fill all the small voids and possibly attach to the side of the small hole better?
Just an update on what I did if anyone is interested. I have only worked with glass and epoxy a couple of times, so I am pretty much a rookie at this.
I decided to cut out the damaged material for fear that a drill bit might rip the cracked wood further along the deck of the board. The finished hole was 1.5 - 2 cm oval. A small layer of gray foam came out with the wood. The depth of the hole was about 3mm. I used some filler that came with the repair kit to thicken up the epoxy. I put some epoxy in the hole, a little piece of glass, a little epoxy and a little glass and little more epoxy which totally filled the void.
I finished up with a square piece of glass over the hole, about 4 cm square and a little more epoxy. I don't know if I needed to do this or not, but the only down side is the appearance of the repair.
I haven't sanded yet, but that will be the finishing touch. Not a perfect look, but it should solve the problem.
My only issue was cutting the small pieces of the glass, since it tends to come apart when you are working with such little pieces.
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