I have a 2011 Starboard Carve 171 that I purchased in September; yesterday while cleaning the board after a session I discovered a 1" longitudinal crack (hairline) on the starboard side of the board, 30" aft of the nose, on the round part of the rail, 1" above the bottom edge). This location is under water most of the time when I am standing on the board. Other than the almost invisable crack, there is no other visable damage, no sign of impact, dent or scratching in the area. I have no idea how it got there or how long it has been there.
After wiping the board down, I noticed a slight weeping coming out of the crack; when I press on the crack, moisture comes out. I proceeded to open it up with a razor to about 1/16" anticipating a repair this morning. I suspended the board in the basement so that the crack is the lowest point; this morning I found a coffee-lid size puddle on the floor under the crack. It is still weeping. So my plan is to:
1. Leave the board suspended until the weeping stops
2. Place the board out in the sunshine for a couple of days
3. Complete a standard glass repair (I'm versed in that)
1. Assuming I get all of the moisture out of the board, will there be lasting damage?
2. Are there additional things I should be doing?
3. Is there a way to be sure the water isn't getting in somewhere else?
Sorry to hear about the damage to your new board.
Sounds like you are doing all the right things toward the repair.
Only thing to add is to open the vent plug (maybe remove it completely) so
gravity can pull more moisture out and there will be a flow of air into the core
to keep it from making a vacuum.
When you take your board out in the sun, again put the crack at the lowest point.
Install and tighten the vent plug so that as the board heats up in the sun it develops
some internal pressure from the expanding air inside.
This will help to expel all the moisutre inside the core of your board.
If it's still weeping water, do the "heating up in the sun" several times until no more water
Be sure to open the vent as soon as the temp starts to drop.
This uses the vent as a "one way" valve, ensuring that pressure develops as the board's core
heats up, and then releases the internal pressure/vacuum as the core cools off ensuring that
it does not simply keep pulling the same water back in.
When no more moisture comes out, do your repair in the evening as the board is cooling, with the
vent plug closed as this will "pull" your repair resin into the crack as the board cools down.
Hope this helps,
I hate to contradict anyone but moist air is lighter then dry air when heated-clouds float for a reason. Put the damaged area at the highest point when out in the sun.
You can try this site for information on water damage. Eva know her stuff.
OK, CoachG & Eva have it right about the water vapor rising as it heats, but if the damaged are is placed lower than the vent, and any pressure at all develops inside the board, or better still keep the vent closed, and the internal pressure will push the water out at the intrusion site.
Once no more liquid water drips out, THEN keep the intrusion site up above the vent.
Actually, since the intrusion site is on the rail, just putting the board on a slight angle with the intrusion site lower, and the vent plug sealed should help push any liquid out.
Then, when only worried about water vapor, leave the vent plug out with a paper towel wick pushed down in the vent hole and the board basically flat rail to rail.
...no sun here in days, so I decided to bring it into the living room and crank up the heat (vent in, intrusion site down) I have a very patient and tolerant wife :)
Shortly after the board warmed up, the water started dripping much quicker, a drop a minute or so. After a couple of hours it has slowed considerably, to the point that the water on the floor dries up before the next drop hits it. I am going to let it sit overnight and check it in the morning. Assuming the drip has stopped, I'll lay it flat, open the vent and put the paper wick in.
One interesting sidebar: when the board warmed up I went over it with a fine toothed comb to check for any other problem areas and found a single drop on the deck surface, near the original crack I mentioned but on the deck. I wiped it away, waited a minute and actually saw another bead reform - I did this multiple times. There is absolutely no mark of any kind at this spot, when the water is wiped away there is nothing. If I press down next to the spot, a bead forms immediately. Weird, seems like the skin is weeping. The rest of the board is fine.
The custom builders used to say that EPS(expanded polystyrene) was short for "every pinhole sucks". I have dried out a few by drilling a hole in the nose and in the tail(must be into the styrofoam). Pick an end and hook up an aquarium pump and seal the entry point with caulk(clear silicone comes off easily). May take days to weeks to dry depending on amount of water. Since you are looking at a repair , just drill a small hole through the crack as your vent. You can also rig the pump tubing through the vent hole. It probably also helps to cycle the board with hot and cold which allows it to breathe--if the air is dry. I know a few that weigh their new boards, write the number on the board and then check it from time to time. Wicking the board is most effective if the leak was at or near the vent plug. Initially the water is between the beads of the styrofoam and flows easily but after a time it enters the foam bubbles and is much harder to remove--much slower to move out of the board. Putting the board in the house near a heat vent is a great way to cycle the board and you can put the pump on the vent so it pumps warm and drier air into the board. I have never used a vacuum pump but they also work. Back in the Hypertech days, they strapped the board onto an old washing machine motor inside a windowless room, drilled holes in the ends and spun the water out--at least as a first step. Jim
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