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bobwil 21st June 2007 12:02 AM

Hatteras and Fins
 
Guys,
Heading to Hatteras with an '07 Carve 144. Have a 8.5 Retro, and 6.6 Hucker. Weigh 220lbs. Due to shallow water, standard fin would be a no go. Any suggestions on weed fin size/shapes? Could one fin get it done?
Regards,

steveC 21st June 2007 12:40 AM

RE: Hatteras and Fins
 
Hi bobwil,

Not sure about your schedule, but I can highly recommend Wolfgang Lessacher's carbon Duo Weed fins. I'm using a 34cm with my 8.3, but I also found that it still works well with my 7.0 too. I also have a 28cm that I use up to 7.0. The thing that I really appreciate with Lessacher's asymmetrical designs is their ability to resist spinout, especially driving hard to windward.

However, there are two factors that might complicate things a bit. Lessacher makes fins to order, and he is located in Germany, so the leadtime is typically in the 3-4 week range. If you have this extra time to work with, its a great direction to go.

http://www.cameraid.com/Lessacher/

Another option to consider would be True Ames Fins. Chuck Ames usually has a fairly extensive stock available, so leadtime would very likely be quite good. Check out what's available at the following website.

http://www.trueames.com/wind.html

Also, in light of the fact that True Ames fins are carried by many US retailers, it's quite likely that one of the shops in the local Hatteras area will carry some inventory.


James 21st June 2007 11:25 AM

RE: Hatteras and Fins
 
Hi Bob,

I would wait and buy the fin when you get down there. Hatteras has many windsurfing shops, all of which carry a wide variety of weed fins. The shopowners are experienced and helpful. They will probably recommend one between 35 and 40 cm with a progressive rake.

-James

o2bnme 21st June 2007 06:12 PM

RE: Hatteras and Fins
 
I've been meaning to try to get my hands on some of Wolfgang's fins, but for now, I use Tangent Reapers. They are great fins... you can get them at Sailworld @ Avon. He has quite a good selection. I find them to be very similar to the regular fins I'm using... they point very well and go pretty darn fast for a weed fin. I second James' suggestion to wait until you get to Hatteras and get something there. They would appreciate the patronage too.

bobwil 21st June 2007 08:25 PM

RE: Hatteras and Fins
 
Thanks for the advice folks! SteveC I may have to look into the German fins later, heading out tomorrow. Sailworld is a regular stop on the trip and down the street from our house.
Cheers,
Bob

MA_Pete 22nd June 2007 09:56 AM

RE: Hatteras and Fins
 
bobwil:

I am headed out to Avon as well tomorrow, for the week. Where are you staying? I am at Island Creek.

I have a HiFly Madd this year, to allow for big sails and short fins... ;)

-Pete

WSguy 25th June 2007 08:30 PM

RE: Hatteras and Fins
 
Well, I've been using the Tangent Reaper this year. Originally, it was in the Sailworld shop in Ma. but somehow it landed at Inland Sea and I bought it. It took me a long time to decide on buying it. However, it's a great fin for shallow water. However, I'm not so sure about it's performance in heavy weeds. Yesterday, I used an Orca with a much deeper rake angle, not in hatteras but cape cod.

puffin 29th June 2007 08:02 PM

RE: Hatteras and Fins
 
Quote:

bobwil wrote: Could one fin get it done?
Regards,
I've found that one weedfin covers a lot more wind range than one standard fin. I've got a 12" weed fin that I bought at Windsurfing Hatteras (I forget the manufacture...it's blue!) which I've used from 5.5 to 7.0 with satisfactory results.

The thing is, I love fins, own about 14 and am happy to buy more, but despite my best efforts to "need" another weed fin, one has been serving me just fine.

I agree with those who suggest making the purchase in Hatteras. The shops know what's working with what.

bobwil 3rd July 2007 11:37 PM

RE: Hatteras and Fins
 
Gang,
After getting skunked Sat-Wed, on Thursday we got 20 mph or so and then Friday 25-30 WOOHOO.
On the fin issue, I have a Reaper 42 but at my weight and the Palmico Sound depth, it was a no go. Ocean Air (formerly Windsurfing Hatteras) set me up with a GSport 32 weed fin which worked great, but I had trouble fully seating it. Any sandpaper grit suggestions? MA_Pete, I was probably sailing with you. I sailed with my friends who were at Island Star, and was one of 2 folks on the water with a Hucker sail (pretty distinctive graphics) at least on Thursday. With the 25-30 on Wednesday I rigged down to a 5.4 and was still overpowered!

Roger 4th July 2007 08:37 AM

RE: Hatteras and Fins
 
Hi Bob,
Abrasive paper works to fit a fin, but it takes forever, and does not allow you to take off only the high spots.
What you need is a bar of bathtub soap, and a file (perhaps 2 files one flat/half round double cut, and a double cut round (rat tail) file.
Rub the soap on the root of the fin. The soap will look dull and whitish.
Put the fin into the fin box and work it back and forth slightly.
Pull the fin back out and look at the root.
The dark shiny spots on the fin root are where the front and rear tapers are in hard contact with the tapers in the fin box.
Take your flat/half round file and just file off the shiny spots.
If the fin seems to be too thick, and you see shiny spots on the sides of the fin, rub those off carefully as well. Don't want to take anything extra off the sides as this is what supports your fin. The front and rear tapers control how far the fin goes into the fin box.
A correctly fitted fin should be snig most of the way in (Tuttle and Deep Tuttle) and should fit tight and flush (Powerbox and Power Taper Box (BIC).
Reapply the soap and fit the fin again.
When the fin is about 1/64" from full seated, and you have a nearly full contact pattern on the front and rear tapers, you are done.
That last 1/64" is the "draw" on the tapers that will keep your fin solid in the finbox.
If you find, as you are fitting the fin, that there's a big hard spot on the front or rear taper in the fin box, you might want to take the rat tail file and work that down a little. This may drop your other fins into the box a little further, so if all your other fins fit, skip the rat tail in the fin box procedure.
The file allows you to remove only the spots that are actually in contact, and allows you to progressively increase the contact area on the front and rear tapers.
If the overhang on the front of your new weed fin doesn't contact the board, you need to add a gasket to fill the sapce or build up the underside of the overhang until it's a good seal on the board.
Cut some fin sheath material and use a good contact cement to glue the foam fin sheath material to the overhang on the fin.
Here's another little trick to make the gasket fit and seal perfectly.
Cut a soda or beer can apart and use a flat section of the thin sheet metal of the can against your board.
Install the fin and tighten up the screw (s) so the glued on foam gasket and the sheet metal are clamped tightly to the bottom of your board.
Then take an exacto or razor knife and trim away the excess gasket.
You won't hurt the board as there's a tin "shield" protecting the bottom of your board.
When you are done, remove the fin and pull out the sheet metal.
Now your fin overhang will have a perfectly shaped and faired in gasket that fits the configuration of your board perfectly.
Hope this helps,


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