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marek 13th December 2007 05:12 AM

Straps position on my Carve 111 [pictures]
Hi Roger and everybody.

So my new (actually used, 2004) Carve 111 has just arrived. What a board! :D Even my wife said it's pretty. It's in mint condition (except the footstraps) and I feel I made a really good deal.
I was also shocked how long it is comparing to my FT 148, how delicate the nose and stern feel, and how little space on the stern is there. It also looks to me like the FT has more new features, like cut-outs at the bottom's back, doomed deck, etc.

Here is a pic:
By the way, what are the two long, parallel narrow cut-ins that go at the bottom (the other side, not on the pictures) from the nose through like a half of the board?

Anyway, back to the straps; I know the outside/back straps setup is more slalom-oriented and inside/forward is freeride/wave but how does it really translate into casual blasting out there?
I mean I want speed and performance, but I admit I also want some comfort and enjoyable freeride with this board, too ;-). What is your experience and pros/cons of both setups?

I set the footstraps in the outside/middle position:

A local guy said I'll have problems with my heels getting in the way with water and actually it seems that my feet may stick out a little bit. He said I should set them more inside, especially the back ones. What is your opinion?

In the meantime, I also moved the straps on my F-type 148 all the way back and outside:

I don't have a chance to try the boards now and I'm afraid I may be forced to wait until Spring, so all your comments in the meantime would be really appreciated.



Roger 13th December 2007 07:59 AM

Hi Marek,
What's wrong with the footstraps? They look hardly used.
The port side rear strap needs to be straightened at the back (check out the anti-twist teeth under the strap) and tightened, but other than that it's just exactly the way I would set it up if I were going to sail it. Same with your F-type!
The long "runners" down the bottom from the front are there so when you do "willy skippers" and jump and turn the board around in mid air, then land the board with you standing on the nose instead of the tail. Those little ridges will provide some "nose bite" when you develop your free style skills that far. The also work (sort of) if you lose your fin and need to sail back in (this is a safety tip.....! With no fin in the rear, nearly all boards are far easier to sail backwards (standing on the nose) than in the normal direction. Works much better than dragging a harness etc., and it's something you can practice on light wind days, just in case.
Since I think you may have discoverd that pushing across the top of the fin and keeping your board slightly "upwind rail up" gets you upwind the fastest and at the highest angle, you don't need to worry about your heels dragging. There will be 2" or more clearance under your heels when you sail the Carve 111.
At first, it's going to seem like the Carve 111 is missing it's fin since you only have your experience with the much larger fins on the F-Type.
So, if I recall correctly. didn't you got a larger fin with the board?
If not, pick up a good 38-42 cm fin and use that to start out, until you learn to get the Carve 111 up to speed BEFORE you start pressuring the fin much.
Cutouts under the stern of the Carves didn't start until about 2006 or maybe 2007.
The '07 boards with the more Isonic like cutaways and stern shape were a pretty radical departure for the Carve which was the "bread and butter" best board for all reasons and seasons for many years, so not many drastic changes were made until 2006-2007.
Since you have most of your experience on the FT-148, I think you will find the Carve 111 is totally comfortable and easy to sail, right out of the box.
And, it will be a dream to jibe in comparison to the FT-148.
The only hurdles you have to get over right at first are learning to be light on the fin (until you get some speed and the water starts moving past the fin enough to generate sufficient lift) and learning to keep the Carve going straight.
Tiny little changes in the roll atitude that didn't have much effect on your FT, will really make the Carve want to turn.
So, be steady, be easy on the fin, wait for enough wind, otherwise you will be kinda disappointed until you do get enough wind, and we are talking about 14 knots or more with a 7.5 m2 rig to really get into the Carve 111's sweet range. 6.5m2 and about 16 knots is going to blow you away (not like "out of control, but like blowing you mind it's so sweet!), 5.5m2 and 20 knots is where you are going to start wanting an even smaller board (don't tell your wife I said this, but it's pretty much inevitable, if you get that sort of conditions.)
Sure you can take the Carve 111 all the way to 24-25 knots with a 4.5-5.5 m2 rig, but something smaller will be making the same kind of differences you are going to discover between your F-Type 148 and the Carve 111.
Hope this helps,

marek 13th December 2007 10:53 PM

Roger, thanks for another great answer.
I'll fix the rear strap in a sec.
Can't wait to try the board!


P.S. Yes, it came with a larger fin, 38cm Drake Freeride. BTW which fin would you recommend as a second, smaller (~32cm) fin I could use with 6.0 and maybe smaller sail (for now I have 7.5 and 6.0 for this board and don't plan to buy a smaller one anytime soon [or so I hope :D]).

Roger 14th December 2007 01:46 AM

Hi Marek,
You are most welcome.
I think you are going to really enjoy the Carve 111. Carves were always very forgiving
boards that really helped developing sailors to ramp up their skills pretty quickly.
Very easy to ride!
When you start jumping or doing big chop hops, then you might want to move the footstraps inboard, but as long as you are "blasting" and want to go fast and upwind, the outboard and back positions are best.
A 32 cm fin would be about right for your 6.0 m2.
Hope this helps,

marek 14th December 2007 01:56 AM


Originally Posted by Roger (Post 17212)
A 32 cm fin would be about right for your 6.0 m2.

OK, but what type/manufacturer should I be looking for? (I'm gonna try the 38 with 6.0 first anyway, but I may be looking for a smaller fin in the meantime)

And BTW - from your experience - which footstraps did you like best? I see a lot of Dakines around, but I remember having their seat harness (low-end model though) and it was very uncomfortable, sold it and bought NP 3D seat - extremely good choice for me).


Roger 14th December 2007 06:58 AM

Hi Marek,
I like the looks of the True Ames Convert and Teardrop, as well as the Gsport Freeride and Freespeed.
Hmmmm.... what's the matter with the good looking footstraps that are already on your Carve 111?
Hope this helps,

marek 14th December 2007 03:05 PM


Originally Posted by Roger (Post 17221)
Hi Marek,
I like the looks of the True Ames Convert and Teardrop, as well as the Gsport Freeride and Freespeed.

Thanks for that, they look cool. I noticed they generally come in 2 types - more straight slalom fins and "curled" freerides (aside from weed fins I disregard right now).
What are the pros/cons in everyday riding of both designs?
(Personally, if I I were to choose now I'd get Gsport Freespeed 34cm for my 6.0 and smaller sails - but honestly I have no experience with fins whatsoever).


Originally Posted by Roger (Post 17221)
Hmmmm.... what's the matter with the good looking footstraps that are already on your Carve 111?

Not visible on the pics, but the port side rear strap has the blue cover cloth ripped off (I sort of wrapped it under the velcro, but it will surely rip off completely exposing the black foam-like material below).


Roger 14th December 2007 09:40 PM

Hi Marek,
OK, here's my version of fins 101....
Fins that have a more vertical planform (not so curved on the leading edge) tend to go upwind better, but they are not what you would call "loose and turny".
Fins that have a fully curving leading edge tend to be more "loose and turny" but do not
go upwind as well.
Fins with a very straight vertical planform (Formula Race Fins, TA Series 2000, Gsport SR-6b and F series, tend to be the fastest and go upwind the best, but they don't jibe well and do not handle bump and jump type maneuvers very well.
So, you look at the board, and what it does best, then you look at the fin and what it does best, then you choose how "radical" you think your maneuvers and moves are going to be and you select a fin that compliments what you are doing (the sailing discipline, i.e. racing, slalom, bump and jump, speed, waves), what the board was designed to do best, and use a fin that gives you dependable lift (or lack of lift in wave/freestyle fins) so you don't spin out, but can turn as freely as the board is capable of.
Then you select a size that will work well with the sail size you are going to use and the sailor weight (bigger heavier sailors use/need larger fins as a rule).

OK, didn't see the torn FS cover. I like the DaKine Primo straps, but just about anything from DaKine is pretty good.
Hope this helps,

Roly Gardner 7th January 2008 10:24 PM

Hi All,

Happy New Year.

Nice boards Marek! I have the Carve 145 (2004 aswell) and love it. The F Type looks really cool too. A general question really. Is the F Type hard to sail particularly in comparison to say my board? I take it that this is a 'Formula' type board. I suppose you cannot compare it with your new Carve 111 yet as you have not had the chance to get out on the water. I am feeling a little restless as Spring seems a long way off atm. Too cold for me at present, although some of the lads have been sailing all Winter!


Roger 8th January 2008 07:24 AM

Hi Roly,
I'll let Marek respond to this as well.
The F-Type is nearly as wide as a formula board, but the rail shape, rockerline and
tail shape are all "detuned" a bit to make the F-Type significantly easier to sail than a
true Formula board.
The F-Types won't get planing quite as early as a true formula board (or the Apollo) but
it will plane earlier than the Carves or the Futura or smaller Isonics due to the wider tail width.
Hope this helps,

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