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-   -   wood veneer, water penetration damage (http://www.star-board-windsurfing.com/forum/showthread.php?t=7695)

Barker 26th November 2009 04:50 AM

wood veneer, water penetration damage
 
My iSonic 101 Wood has water damage to the wood skinned planing surface. Water has penetrated the thin paint coat and the wood veneer has cracked along the grain. Wetting/ drying cycles have unstuck and shrunk the material so there are now many raised lines running down the under surface of the board. Further drying will see these raise as the unstuck wood shrinks back. Question is, how to treat and repair? Any suggestions gratefully received.

davide 26th November 2009 11:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Barker (Post 37291)
My iSonic 101 Wood has water damage to the wood skinned planing surface. Water has penetrated the thin paint coat and the wood veneer has cracked along the grain. Wetting/ drying cycles have unstuck and shrunk the material so there are now many raised lines running down the under surface of the board. Further drying will see these raise as the unstuck wood shrinks back. Question is, how to treat and repair? Any suggestions gratefully received.

I seem to have a similar problem, or maybe the beginning of it. I have raised lines running down the plainng surface of my Is-111 but the rises are very small.

Since it looked more like a problem with fairing of the bottom rather than water penetration I decided to sand with 360. Very moderate careful sanding seem to even out my planing surface (the wood lines show where the thin paint has been sanded off).

I suspect that it is unwise to leave the wood showing (although it is resin impregnated), so my question is if I should paint just to be on the safe side (or maybe return the board under warrnty?)

Roger 27th November 2009 12:15 AM

Hi Barker and Davide,
Penetrating Epoxy would be the best "treatment" for this condition.
Check out this link on CPES Penetrating epoxy.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...h+%26+Co.+CPES
I'd suggest thinning out the epoxy with whatever the recommended solvent for CPES
is.
Set the area of your board that does not appear to have "soaked up" sufficient epoxy when wood layer was put on during manufacture as level as possible.
Mix and thin the epoxy for the longest suggested cure time (gives the penetrating epoxy the most "soak" time to ensure max penetration).
When the CPES has fully cured, sand back until you just start to see some of the white from the thin layer of paint begin to show up on your sanding pad.
I'd recommend wet sanding by hand here.
If the wood layer (only a few tenths of a mm thick, like heavy paper) didn't get enough resin when your board was built, this is about the best way to get more resin to the wood and stabilize the outer layer so moisture no longer causes it to swell and shrink.
Hope this helps!

davide 27th November 2009 12:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Roger (Post 37302)
If the wood layer (only a few tenths of a mm thick, like heavy paper) didn't get enough resin when your board was built, this is about the best way to get more resin to the wood and stabilize the outer layer so moisture no longer causes it to swell and shrink.
Hope this helps!

Ok, now I am worried. I thought the wood layer was way thicker than few tenths of millimeter, so my rises might be actually in the ballpark of the thickness of the wood ...

I am not sure I understand hoe the penetrating epoxy will work. Do I need first to sand the bottom? or does the epoxy go through the paint? It would seem that the proper way to do this would be to sand the bottom (until the wood shows), put the penetrating epoxy on, sand, put fairing compound, fair and finally paint ... all this on a very large surface ... what a mess

Roger 27th November 2009 08:42 AM

Hi Davide,
Didn't mean to alarm you more, but rather to put some of your fears to rest.
My point, in suggesting the wood layer on your iSonic 101 is only 0.6 mm (0.0259"... the equivalent of six sheets of 0.004 " computer printer paper) was to inform that the wood layer is very thin, similar in thickness to a layer of fiberglass.
This wood layer is sprayed on both sides with a penetrating type resin, and the moisture content of the wood sheet material is controlled very closely so the wood "soaks" the correct amount of resin as it is applied to your board.
The layer that is under the wood is also completely sealed, so there in never any transfer of moisture beyond the wood layer toward the interior of the board.
Then the board is painted and to get the "fast" finish on the bottom, this paint is very thin and is sanded back some so a tiny bit of grain shows through the paint.
Yes, you could sand all the paint off the wood and resoak the wood with penetrating resin as you suggest, then refinish/fair/paint/finish sand. As you suggest this is quite a task and would require lots of work, and would probably add a bit of weight as well.
What I'm suggesting is to let your board dry, and simply apply the CPEC resin and let it
soak into the wood fibers that are somehow now soaking up water.
Then a quick sanding back to remove any excess CPEC and your boards bottom would now be sealed completely as any wood that can take on water would have pulled in the CPEC resin and thus saturated would not take on anymore water, which would stop the
grain from lifting and curling.
Hope this helps,

Barker 5th December 2009 09:30 PM

Roger,
Thanks very much for the info. Will now do as you suggest.
Regards
Barker


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