Nonskid Repair on wood deck
I'm doing a ding repair on a wood Serenity. It's such a beautiful board, I'm trying to do it right.
Following Roger's input, after being sure the area was dry, I've used penetrating epoxy to seal the exposed wood, filled and faired the defect using epoxy mixed with wood flour, and then glassed over the area.
I'm trying to decide what is the best approach to adding the non-skid to match the original, and would like to achieve both a long lasting functional non-skid and a good cosmetic result which matches and blends into the rest of the non-skid (I'm only applying non-skid to an area a few inches across, not the whole board).
I've checked Eva "the board lady" site but can't find anything on non-skid. From the research I've done it appears I can apply a coat of epoxy or polyurethane and then sprinkle over "non-skid dust" or go with Redeck. Which of these choices would give the best result on a Wood Serenity to match the factory non-skid? Does anyone know how the factory non-skid is applied to wood deck Starboards?
By the way, I'm using West Sytem 105 Resin and 207 Hardener (the 207 results in a very clear epoxy designed especially for glassing over wood surfaces such as the Serenity deck without altering the color and is also UV inhibited. So I'm not sure if I should stick with this epoxy, go with polyurethane, or go with Redeck (which I've heard some say doesn't last that long). Some people have also said that epoxy can yellow, but that may be less true of the UV inhibited epoxy I'm using.
Also, if anyone has suggestions on the best brand and source for "non-skid dust" I'd appreciate it.
Thanks! I and my Serenity thank you!