I'll paste in your last post here and work on each item seperately...OK?
"Some useful tips there. I do think that I am trying to gybe without enough initial speed. This is probably because I hoped to get a "feel" for manoeuvre before moving on to higher wind situations. This is a process I have used successfully for other techniques. Is that possible or do I really have to power up and go for it? In truth, that was what I had to do to getting into the foot straps as Roger knows. I was rushing and not waiting to get sufficient speed to make the transition."
Roly..... You have to be "up to speed" to attempt any sort of planing or carve gybe.
If you sheet out or slow down for any reason, you simply won't have the speed for the board to support your weight that far back.
The result is the nose pops up and you lose all your speed. Gybe over! (at least any sort of plaing gybe).
So, yes, you need to "go for it" and go into your gybe with as much speed as you can muster. The more speed, the better!
Gybing through "downwind" pretty much leaves you powerless for at least a little while, so you have to have enough speed going in to coast/carve through the fully downwind portion of your gybe when you have virtually no power at all.
Non-planing (sink/pivot) gybes are a different matter, so you can often turn a failed carve gybe into a sink or pivot non-plaing gybe. Kinda nice as it makes you look like you intended to do the non-planing gybe all along!
"Yes Roger, I have a Carve 145. I notice that the demo board that Jem Hall is using is not a modern short board and this I think has confused me a bit. He refers to the action as "a turntable". By sinking the tail, the board turns around this apex. My attempts fail at the point that I am pointing down wind. I get stuck in this position as I do not know what I a supposed to do! The board seems not to want to continue the turn and I just keep "running" downwind. This is a pretty unstable position even on my largish board and I usually fall in or just reverse up and tack!"
You can do very nice sink/pivot gybes on your Carve 145, but you will need to move forward to a point where the board is wider and more stable.
Are you sure that Jem isn't doing his pivot gybes on a longboard? Pivot gybes are really more a longboard maneuver.
You can do them, but you will have to experiement on where you need to position yourself on the board. Back foot between the front and rear footstraps, on the centerline
(use the back foot, fin, and tail of the board as the center point of your pivot).
Where to place your front foot you will have to figure out on your own.
The idea is to slow down, sink the tail of the board, and use the power in the rig (flared out to the upwind side) to drive your board around.
"I certainly have not been tipping the board away from the wind by putting the pressure on the lee rail. I have been trying to get the board moving by bearing the rig away. This has a limited effect I find and I am sure that I am not doing this right. I tend to draw the mast across a bit and forward by extending my front arm whilst looking off downwind. Is that right? Should I exaggerate the movement perhaps?"
Please clarify "bearing the rig away" for me.
You need to bear the board away and onto a more downwind course as you set up any gybe.
You also need to bear off (both the board and the rig) to get on plane when you aren't fully powered up.
Yes, bringing the mast upwind in front of your shoulder (actually well upwind of your front shoulder) will help turn you board downwind when trying for a sink/pivot type non-planing gybe.
"In terms of the rig flip, should I try to hold the rig clew first until I am out of the turn as I have seen on the instruction dvds or make an early flip so that I can power up and away. Would the latter help drive the board around the final part of the turn. Maybe I can work out the feet switch once I get the gybe working or is this integral to the process?"
Sailing out of a gybe "clew first" is a pretty advanced technique (mostly used by sailors on low volume (sinker) type wave and B&J boards that will sink if the power from the rig goes away completely.) The clew first gybe is a way to keep power in the rig all the way around the gybe so the board does not stop and sink out from under them.
You need to work first on getting the board to carve into the gybe.
Then worry about the sail flip.
You should flip it a little before the board is heading straight downwind, but you must
keep the board carving so don't get so wrapped up in the sail flip that the board straightens out and sails off downwind.
Break your gybe up into segments, and work you way through the segments.
1/ Initiation/setup for the gybe.
2/ The carve into the gybe.
3/ The sail flip just before downwind.
4/ The foot switch
5/ Powering up on the new tack.
If you take these in sequence, and work on them one at a time, as you get further into the sequence, pretty soon the board will carve in when you initiate, keep carving as you
flip your sail, and straighten out well below a beam reach on the new tack.
Hope this helps,
Last edited by Roger; 26th October 2008 at 12:55 AM.