Thread: Water Intrusion
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Old 11th November 2011, 12:25 PM   #6
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The custom builders used to say that EPS(expanded polystyrene) was short for "every pinhole sucks". I have dried out a few by drilling a hole in the nose and in the tail(must be into the styrofoam). Pick an end and hook up an aquarium pump and seal the entry point with caulk(clear silicone comes off easily). May take days to weeks to dry depending on amount of water. Since you are looking at a repair , just drill a small hole through the crack as your vent. You can also rig the pump tubing through the vent hole. It probably also helps to cycle the board with hot and cold which allows it to breathe--if the air is dry. I know a few that weigh their new boards, write the number on the board and then check it from time to time. Wicking the board is most effective if the leak was at or near the vent plug. Initially the water is between the beads of the styrofoam and flows easily but after a time it enters the foam bubbles and is much harder to remove--much slower to move out of the board. Putting the board in the house near a heat vent is a great way to cycle the board and you can put the pump on the vent so it pumps warm and drier air into the board. I have never used a vacuum pump but they also work. Back in the Hypertech days, they strapped the board onto an old washing machine motor inside a windowless room, drilled holes in the ends and spun the water out--at least as a first step. Jim





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