Thread: Serenity.
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Old 23rd May 2014, 01:36 AM   #29
Dream Team - School Guru
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,177

Hi Alena,
I'm doing well! Heading for the US Windsurfing Nationals to teach beginners next month in
SW Minnesota.
OK, how much are you "railing" your Princess (i.e. Serenity).
The key to going upwind and jibing on the Serenity is definitely "railing".
How large a fin are you using now?
If the huge 70+ cm wide blade Drake fin that came with the board, that's going to make "railing" much harder to do.
As I recall, with that big stock fin, the Serenity is super twitchy when you put your weight
forward (and the mast foot also) to get the maximum waterline length (increases your speed potential as well as causing the nose of the board to "bite" when you rail it slightly to leeward (downwind).
I'd suggest trying a vertical fin in the 58-62 cm range.
If you stay forward and get the nose to bite you will go upwind very nearly as well as you can with the big wide Drake fin, but the board will be a lot less "twitchy" and you will be a lot more successful "railing" it to turn upwind into a tack or downwind into a jibe.
In order to jibe, you need to step well back on the board to get the nose up out of the water as much as you can.
I realize that the Serenity gets very narrow back there, but you can drive the nose downwind with the rig out to the side (flare jibe) unless you decrease the waterline length.
I call it a "pivot jibe" and it needs to be done quickly so you can scamper back forward to the wider part of the board, sheet in, and begin railing again with the lee rail lowered.
To initiate the pivot jibe, you have to tip your Serenity (rail it actually) upwind rail down to
get the fin to carve off the wind.
Try it..... it's tricky, but if you spend some time working on it, you will soon be able to jibe the Serenity pretty much like any longboard using the "pivot jibe" technique.
On sprucing up the white areas of your deck, over the graphics, how much did the Smith & Co. penetrating resin discolor things.
Perhaps you can apply the penetrating resin right over the top of the graphics without completely destroying them.
Otherwise, find a very artistic friend with a good camera.
Have them photograph the graphics to scale and then use some graphics techniques (or just plain artistry) to redo the graphics after you re soak the wood on the deck.
Hope this helps,
Roger is offline   Reply With Quote