RE: Stand Up
Ola H's comments about going out through the surf are quite right. I remember back in the early 60's when I started surfing on a longboard, we used to paddle out on our knees and than stand up over the incoming waves. It was a kind of cool thing to do at the time, and longboards made it more viable. Anyway, in first learning this type of maneuver, I got the board thrown back in my face due to being too far back on the board. When it happened, I ultimately got a lot wax pieces in my mouth and thought I busted up my front teeth. Fortunately that wasn't the case, but i still retained a bump on my forehead for many years.
Experience really does make a difference, no matter what you do.