Old 15th October 2012, 02:11 PM   #21
Alena
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Hi Roger
I did clean off the grey lines like you said. The issue is the beautiful wood deck of the Serenity has areas that look white and dry more like an abrasion, this mostly towards the edges of the deck, maybe the boom brushed over it. It is not a ding , looks more like an abrasion and it is not deep, just like skinning your knee. There are little lines on the deck that look like it in other places. Seems like wood that needs staining but what do I know.
Also I have trouble getting the fin out after sailing , should I send it a bit?
I took the Serenity out yesterday in the usual up and down wind here and while th others were stuck between the gusts, I was having great time and when the gust came just flying. I started enjoying the Serenity more than my large board.
Thanks a lot
Alena
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Old 15th October 2012, 11:44 PM   #22
Roger
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Hi Alena,
" did clean off the grey lines like you said."
OK! Grey lines are taken care of and you now have a way to clean them off when they reappear.

"The issue is the beautiful wood deck of the Serenity has areas that look white and dry more like an abrasion, this mostly towards the edges of the deck, maybe the boom brushed over it. It is not a ding , looks more like an abrasion and it is not deep, just like skinning your knee. There are little lines on the deck that look like it in other places. Seems like wood that needs staining but what do I know."

Your analysis is probably "spot on".
The absolute best product to use would be some penetrating epoxy. The whiteness you are seeing is probably dryer areas in the wood where it did not soak up enough epoxy resin when your board was manufactured. It's very difficult to get a "perfect soak" over several pieces of very thin wood veneer (0.010 mm thick).
So, the penetrating epoxy is about the best you can get as it will be absorbed by the dryer areas in the wood veneer to the extent possible. Jamestown Dist. has this product as well as most boat supply shops.
West Systems also now markets a penetrating epoxy.

"Also I have trouble getting the fin out after sailing , should I send it a bit?"
Better to rub it with a bar of soap (as a lubricant). If it does not slide in and out easily, take a look at
the surfaces of the fin root when you have it out and you should see areas that are black and shiny.
Those are the tight areas. Better to use a smooth flat file and just work down the shiny spots.
What fin are you using? Still the wide 70 cm that came as OEM in the board.
Try a 60 cm vertical race fin sometime. You will love it with your 7.5 m2 rig. You aren't racing so the
absolute best upwind angle is not that important, plus you can rail the board (more controllably with the
60 cm) and get the nose of your Serenity to "bite" into the water and take you upwind extremely high and fast.

I took the Serenity out yesterday in the usual up and down wind here and while th others were stuck between the gusts, I was having great time and when the gust came just flying. I started enjoying the Serenity more than my large board.
If you have a place close to the water and don't have to transport the Serenity hull (car top or?) they are
really a fun board to sail.
I have lot's of fond memories of things that happened while sailing the Serenity.

"Thanks a lot"
You are most welcome!

Enjoy,
Roger
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Old 17th October 2012, 12:52 AM   #23
Alena
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Hi Roger
Thanks a lot for all the help.
The Serenity is actually easy to lift up on the car and after that hangs on pulleys in the garage. And considering the amount of windsurfing junk the average windsurfer accumulates it is not big deal , just one more.
Can you tell me what is this penetrating Epoxy called.?
By the way do you still go to Bonaire and if so when?
Thanks
Alena
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Old 17th October 2012, 01:41 AM   #24
Roger
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Hi Alena,
You can find it by googling "Penetrating epoxy".
I've sent off an email to Eva-M Holman "The Board Lady" to
see what she recommends.
Any way you can send some photos of the spots on the deck
of your Serenity so Eva and I can zero in on the best materials
to repair it to it's original state?
No, I haven't been back to Bonaire in a few years as I'm back working on the
Aircraft Carrier landing systems agian almost full time.
I hope to maybe sneak away to Bonaire this winter but it will have to fit
between work missions.
Regards,
Roger

Last edited by Roger; 18th October 2012 at 03:48 AM.
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Old 17th October 2012, 02:46 AM   #25
Roger
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Alena,
Just got a reply back from Eva (The Board Lady).
She suggests "Smith and Co. Penetrating Resin.
Should be available at Jamestown distributors.
Roger
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Old 21st July 2013, 10:38 PM   #26
Alena
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Hello Roger
The Serenity is back on the water and thanks to you and Eva for all the good advice.
The board is unbelievable.
Today I was the only person sailing , even the kiters stayed home due to what looks to everybody else like a no wind day.
It was about 5-8 knots, I rigged it with the 10M sail and went flying. The board just flies, catches waves and in the process you get a steady shower for the hot day here. It is definitely my favourite.
I may need another one on 10 years, hope they make them again
Have a nice Summer
Alena
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Old 21st July 2013, 11:20 PM   #27
Roger
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Hi Alena,
Sounds like lot's of fun....those are my memories of the Serenity....it did not matter if there was wind, I had fun on the Serenity even in very light patchy winds (just little williwaws across the top of the water).
Take care of your Serenity and she will last longer than 10 years.
I still think a 10 m2 rig for a small but solid lady is a little much. Not sure you are going any faster than
you would with a 7.5-8.5 free race sail that has a really good low end. You'd work a whole lot less at
getting the rig out of the water and holding in up.
Regards,
Roger
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Old 23rd May 2014, 12:22 AM   #28
Alena
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Hi Roger
First I hope you are doing well.
I took the Serenity out with a smaller fin and it was much easier to tack and was much more serene, i.e. was not as much out of the water, less crazy. I liked the tacking part , but prefer it to be crazy.
The reason I am writing is to ask what is the best way to jibe the board? I want to take it and myself to a race which I would win (unfairly) if only I coud jibe. Do you just do a flare jibe?

The other reason is that the surface od the deck is turning white in the areas I did not fix last year and this involves the graphics which I do not want to destroy by scraping off the bad paint. What is one to do?
I do not want to make the Princess ugly.
Thanks a lot
Alena
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Old 23rd May 2014, 01:36 AM   #29
Roger
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Hi Alena,
I'm doing well! Heading for the US Windsurfing Nationals to teach beginners next month in
SW Minnesota.
OK, how much are you "railing" your Princess (i.e. Serenity).
The key to going upwind and jibing on the Serenity is definitely "railing".
How large a fin are you using now?
If the huge 70+ cm wide blade Drake fin that came with the board, that's going to make "railing" much harder to do.
As I recall, with that big stock fin, the Serenity is super twitchy when you put your weight
forward (and the mast foot also) to get the maximum waterline length (increases your speed potential as well as causing the nose of the board to "bite" when you rail it slightly to leeward (downwind).
I'd suggest trying a vertical fin in the 58-62 cm range.
If you stay forward and get the nose to bite you will go upwind very nearly as well as you can with the big wide Drake fin, but the board will be a lot less "twitchy" and you will be a lot more successful "railing" it to turn upwind into a tack or downwind into a jibe.
In order to jibe, you need to step well back on the board to get the nose up out of the water as much as you can.
I realize that the Serenity gets very narrow back there, but you can drive the nose downwind with the rig out to the side (flare jibe) unless you decrease the waterline length.
I call it a "pivot jibe" and it needs to be done quickly so you can scamper back forward to the wider part of the board, sheet in, and begin railing again with the lee rail lowered.
To initiate the pivot jibe, you have to tip your Serenity (rail it actually) upwind rail down to
get the fin to carve off the wind.
Try it..... it's tricky, but if you spend some time working on it, you will soon be able to jibe the Serenity pretty much like any longboard using the "pivot jibe" technique.
On sprucing up the white areas of your deck, over the graphics, how much did the Smith & Co. penetrating resin discolor things.
Perhaps you can apply the penetrating resin right over the top of the graphics without completely destroying them.
Otherwise, find a very artistic friend with a good camera.
Have them photograph the graphics to scale and then use some graphics techniques (or just plain artistry) to redo the graphics after you re soak the wood on the deck.
Hope this helps,
Roger
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Old 24th May 2014, 06:39 PM   #30
Jean-Marc
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Hi Alena,

To jibe the Serenity, you really have to concentrate on the footwork first. Contrary to a normal planing board where you push down the inside rail (leeward rail down) to jibe the board, you have to push down the outside rail (windward rail down) to jibe the Serenity or any other board equipped with a centerboard.

While being on a dead downwind course, bank the board so that the windward rail gets down to water. The board starts to turn past the eye of the wind. Being still switch stance, continue to apply pressure to the old windward rail (the new leeward rail) to continue the turning arc. At that time, you can continue the turning arc and go clew first, or switch foot, flip the sail and rake it to the tail to continue the jibing turn to upwind.

You can practice a good exercise by making S curves while going dead downwind and alternatively pressing down the windward rail or the leeward rail without flipping the sail. Once you're confident with this footwork, you can next concentrate on the handwork with sail flipping and further footwork with foot stance switching.

In sum : the more the banking and the more you stomp on the back of the hull, the smaller the radius of the jibe you give to the "Princess". This is a good exercise to do before a race in order to get used again to the big nose and large radius turns while moving around buoys.

Cheers !

JM
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