Go Back   Starboard Forums > Free Forum

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 25th April 2008, 05:06 AM   #11
Unregistered
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I always rig from new at home cause it's amazing how stiff they are, and you don't want to be rushing it to hit the water. It kinds of makes you wonder how much more stretching is going on after more use, if 3 or 4 times makes such a difference. You do normally end up creasing the luff loads when working up the cams and that's apparently the fastest way to wear the material. I recall Maui sails using a slightly wider sleeve for that reason and it sounds a good idea, although I've not tried one myself.
  Reply With Quote
Old 27th April 2008, 07:52 AM   #12
blazer
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 26
Default

Ok, just had my second attempt rigging my 8.5 GTX. Went much smoother this time. Just have to take your time inserting the mast through the cambers and pulling down the luff at the cambers starting with the highest one then moving to the lower ones. Maui Sails has a rigging video of their MS-2 that requires inserting the mast through the cambers just like the GTX.

Now, de-rigging was still just as painfull getting the mast out of the luff. Ounce out, I noticed some really nice and vertical scratches on my brand new Fiberspar 7000 mast. At this rate, I'll need a new mast by season end. Sliding the mast through the cambers puts too much stress on the mast.

Are there any recommendations to help prevent mast wear -n- tear during rigging?
It seams the carbon material is softer on the lower section of the mast (gray in color) then the upper section (black in color).
blazer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27th April 2008, 12:05 PM   #13
Unregistered
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Did you McLube the mast again and again? It really makes a difference to do it LOTS of times because the lubricant gets transferred to the inside of the mast sleeve. Also lube the cams a bunch of times. I did that with an old nitro that I was using on a fat old ck75 neil pryde mast and it really made a difference. McLube aint cheap but it's worth it considering the depreciation of the sail and the mast. Don't be penny wise here.
Still, it was a lot of work not to completely crease the sail each time rigging. I'd consider selling the gtx before the monofilm gets ruined and it's resale value goes down even more...
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st May 2008, 07:14 PM   #14
Klint
Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 66
Default

Gaatra GTX 7,5 was tested in latest Windsurf Magazine (May 2008) and recieved top scores, congratulations.

In the test article it was suggested that cams should be popped on after full mast insertion. The major thing I've previously heard about GTX rigging is that the mast should slide through the cams while rigging. What is the correct method, putting the least stress on luff and cams?

In fact, for nearly all freerace sails in the test it was suggested that cams should be popped on (GTX, V8, Naish SL, Naish Redline, North RAM, North S-type, Severne Overdrive). Only sail where mast was suggested to slide through cams duriing rigging was the Tushingham Lightning. Seems odd....

/ Andy
Klint is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 2nd May 2008, 01:30 AM   #15
blazer
Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 26
Default

That's what I figured and attempted to do the first time. The luff sleeve seems too narrow to allow this, at least on the bottom most cam. Didn't try the others after I couldn't get the bottom one on. I would love to find out the recommended technique as well.
blazer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 21st October 2008, 06:01 AM   #16
Unregistered
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Know this s an old thread but ???
I rig North (an old IQ) and GTX`s (both 07`s) popping cambers on after mast insertion ,a touch of DH and fair bit of outhaul.I also always detension battens on all cams before derigging and re-tension after fully rigging.Sounds a pain but it does make process loads easier.(ie detensioning battens) Takes 2 minutes to tension up battens ???
  Reply With Quote
Old 21st October 2008, 07:52 PM   #17
Unregistered
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I have 2 GTX (10.5' 2007 and 8.5' 2008) and i can say that both of them are great sails.
At first when i bought 10.5 i had porblems (cams were popping out of the mast while rigging, the broken the batten on the first derigging, on the second riggind the mast made a hole in the sail sleave, it went through about 20cm from the 3 cam), but after 2-3 rigging/derriging procedures i have found very simple and easy way.
I take the top peace of the mast and slide it through the cams all the way till the end, make sure that the top of the sail sits on the mast good. Don't be afraid of wrinkles, they won't do anything to your sail.
After that i put the bottom part of the mast and downhold the sail carefully.
Derigging is in the opposite way.
Take the boom out, release the sail, take the extension away, then take the mats (~the place where the boom was fixed) with your right hand, with you left one slide the sail towards you (the top of the mast). You will see that step by step the cam tension on the mast will become smaller and smaller. Ass soon as you'll see the mast connection by the downhold rollers take the bottom part of the mast and by holding the sail with the left hand pull the mast out of the sleave with your right one.
This works for me. Now i can rig and derig the sail only by my own. No other people needed to hold the top of the sail while pulling the mast out.

Sorry for my english.

T.N.

P.S. 10.5 gtx is abit more complicated. After i push the top of the mast and put the bottom part I fix the boom (just putting it on so it could easy slide up and down) outhold the sail a bit and only after that starting to downhold the sail. This helps me to prevent the batten cracks. I wrote that the first time when i was derigging the sail i took off the boom first and when i realeased the sail and started to pull the mast out the 2 batten broke down.
  Reply With Quote
Old 22nd October 2008, 06:37 PM   #18
Unregistered
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

As previous poster mentioned detensioning battens makes loads of difference but you never see it in any instrution ???
Any reason ???
  Reply With Quote
Old 24th September 2012, 11:47 PM   #19
Unregistered
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Default

I have managed to combine these two techniques. First you insert the mast into the bottom cam and bypass the next two cam by sliding the mast over the cams. Just like somebody said earlier that bottom cam can't be popped on after fully downhauled. Then check that top is properly in socket and start downhauling. In some point the mast will be bending just enough to easily pop on the middle cam (might take couple of times to figure the right amount of downhaul). Then continue until the upmost cam can be easily popped on and after that downhaul fully. So you have to pause downhauling two times and stand up to pop the cams if you get familiar with this technique. Not too hard a job and mast will thank you.
  Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Tags
None

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT +7. The time now is 02:59 AM.