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Old 6th August 2007, 11:19 AM   #21
windsurferdagg
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Default RE: sunken mast track

ahhh I get it. the jibe part that is. I am almost starting a downwind 360 kind of thing I guess.

This only happens when I am really powered. Overpowered that is. I have no problem when I am comfertably powered. I heard someone say sheet in when you are overpowered while jibing, but I guess I took it too far in my case and didn't sheet back out in time.

As for the jumping, I was watching Beginner to Winner and he describes pushing with the back foot to get the nose up etc. I was just confused I guess. I will try it again next time I am out.

It is really cool right now. My first time out on the hyper was pretty scary. Compared to the Go 139, I was blasting WAY faster I was almost afraid to bear off. Now it seems like I am just going slower. I guess im just getting used to the speed. I am starting to bear away on some runs and try some speed runs. Its fun. I hope to take my friends GPS out. Get some tuning things checked out to see if they really make a difference. One massive one that I just found out is that this hype about early planing and a high boom is actually very true. I was out in a marginal day and during a long lull, I raised my boom as high as it would go... I would normally not even think of getting planing, but now, I was comfortably blasting around!

One more question. Does this boom height make increase speed as well as early planing? Or once you have your stance dialed in, or does it matter once you are planing.

Thanks so much for helping me understand Roger,

Thomas
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Old 6th August 2007, 12:17 PM   #22
Roger
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Default RE: sunken mast track

Hi Thomas,
Sheeting in (oversheeting, actually), to start your jibe, when you are really powered up, is the correct thing to do as it takes some of the power out of the sail, and sort of "draws" the nose of the board into the carve.
When you are less powered, and have less speed, shutting off the power isn't what you want to do.
So, for fully powered up to overpowered, yes, oversheet as you head into your carve. When underpowered or only marginally powered, you need to keep some power in the sail to keep whatever speed you have. This would be where you sheet out prgressively as you turn off the wind.
If the guy in the video was talkign about small wave and bump and jmp boards, where your stance is alot more vertical, and the tail of the board is very narrow, yes, stomping DOWN on the tail brings the nose up and if you time it correctly, that will occur just as the board "pops" off your ramp. In flat water, this same rapid downward push on th tail will get the board up out of the water for small jumps and to get the board out of the water for freestyle tricks.
But it does not really apply to a wide tailed board like your Hypersonic.
I'd look for the steepest ramps you can find, and use the limited "pop" in the board for any jump attempts, and be sure to land the board flat (rail to rail) as if you catch the wings at the back of the board, you will probably have a "yard sale".
Boom height is a very individual thing.
Formula racers on huge 9.8 + m2 rigs run the booms very high.
Slalom racers run their booms much lower.
You have to find out what height is the most comfortable for each of your sails. Normally the larger the sail the higher you may want to run the boom.
For super fast (scary fast slalom) in higher wind conditions, even the big guys run their booms down around shoulder to chin level.
Again, you have to experiment and figure out what works for you on your board, with your fin, and your rig.
You seem a bit "susceptible" to what you are seeing on the videos.
The videos are good, no doubt, but you have to look at the conditions they are made in, the board and rig types they are using, and see if these things match what you have.
The more their gear is different from what you have, the less credible the video is if you try to apply it to your sailing.
One thing to consider.
The videos are most often made in salt water, and you are sailing in fresh water. Just the difference in buoyancy is going to make a difference.
Hope this helps,
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Old 7th August 2007, 10:22 AM   #23
windsurferdagg
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Default RE: sunken mast track

wow I had no idea. I will keep that in mind. The sail tuning and trimming and technical stuff like that will still apply though. Won't it? Like the movie Faster by Peter Hart? All that speed advice is still good? That is an awesome movie.

Also, Roger or Ian, would you recomend getting an adjustable outhaul for my 7.6 and maybe my 6.6? I would like to get into slalom sailing and speed sailing as well as long distance course racing with friends at my local spot. Wondering if its good with sails like that. I know they recommend one for big sails.

Oh and after 3 sessions on my hyper, my mom noticed that the footstrap neoprene or whatever they use is ripping at the seams. I don't see what would cause this. Maybe just defective? Its only on one footstrap. But it looks like the whole thing is comign apart. Bad material/production mistake?

Thanks a lot,

Thomas
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Old 7th August 2007, 11:54 AM   #24
Roger
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Default RE: sunken mast track

Hi Thomas,
I haven't seen the video "Faster" by Peter Hart, so I cannot say how applicable the tuning info is to your current gear.
If the boards look to be similar width, then much of the tuning may be similar.
If they are on slilghtly older dedicated slalom boards then the rig tuning should work, but the techniques and board tuning may require a little "modification" to be fully applicable.
Only way you can finds these things out is to go out and spend the time on the water to test them yourself in your conditions with your gear.
Unfortuantely no one can tell you to set your board/rig/fin up a certain way and you will be tuned at 10/10ths.
Even if they were to sail your gear and go considerably faster on it than you can, you probably could not take it out and duplicate their speed without making some changes to make things more comfortable for you.
As far as the adjustable outhaul, that's a very inexpensive way to get even more performance out of your rig.
Yes! Get one!
Check your footstrap to see that it's really tight to the boad and that the anti-twist device is working correctly.
Footstraps usually last a long time, and if you feel there's a problem, take a digital photo and work a warranty back through the dealer you bought the board from.
Normally you have to take the board to the dealer, but for something like a footstrap, maybe you could just send the footstrap in.
If you straps are tight to the board and not twisting, I wouldn't worry about the neoprene cover too much.
Hope this helps,
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