changing footstrap positions

[WSguy]

Thanks Roger. I filled the crack with 2-ton 2-part epoxy and screwed the strap in while it was still wet. With this board, I decided to keep the straps in one position and not bother to move them around. If this repair doesn't hold up, I'll try the one you recommend. I'm also going to bookmark that URL and perhaps pick up a stripped thread kit for my shop.

[steveC]

Hi Ian,

I understand where you are coming from going with the optimum fin fix using the brass threaded inserts. Truely, it's the best possible fix for stripped fin threads. Earlier, I discussed this repair approach with Chuck Ames of True Ames fins (his firm is located just a few miles away), and he indicated that he would gladly install the brass inserts for me. I just haven't done it yet. Also, given the fact that the stripped thread is the rear one on a Tuttle base, it's my thought that the Cadillac repair isn't as much of a necessity. In any case, your post above greatly appreciated, and I know that many will find advantage in this best possible repair strategy.

[Roger]

Hi Ian, Steve, and WSGuy,
The Permatex-Locktite Thread Repair Compound is NOT a "thread locker" (although LockTite is famous for their many different grades of "thread lockers").
It's a completely different product that results in high pull out strength
basically new threads after it sets up completely.
Another "option" for Tectonics (and other high end fins with the fin screw threads tapped directly into the G-10 or the casting plastic the fin head is formed from is to use a Keen-Sert SS thread insert.
Just tap the hole to the next oversize (.25-20 UNC gets tapped to .312- 18 UNC) and install the threaded stainless steel insert.
Then drive the locking keys in and you have a very high strength fastening method.
Biggest problem with Tectonics, is that Dennis puts the holes with the threads in them precisely where Larry Tuttle's drawings specify they should be, but if you don't "slot" the fin screw holes in your board, you often end up with a little misalignment. This causes alot of problems and prematurely wears the threads in the G-10 and fin head plastic.
Wish all the board mfg.'s would use Larry's drawings and tolerances (especially for hole locations). Then everything would fit pretty much interchangeably.
Hope this helps,

[RobSwift]

Roger, thanks for all the info. I'm looking around in local hardware and auto parts stores for that Permatex product.